ANTI-AGEING SKINCARE PRODUCTS

Did you know that some anti-ageing skincare products contain very few ingredients that have much impact on your skin? However, if you buy something packed with the goodies listed below, your skin will instantly feel the benefits. Become an ingredient reader, and also look out for skincare brands labelled 'cosmeceuticals' (meaning cosmetics with pharmacological activity), as these will have a more significant effect on your skin than any cosmetic cream.

Antioxidants
These are what you need to fight (and even reverse) free-radical damage. Free radicals are unstable oxygen molecules with only one electron, so they must scavenge other molecules for their missing one. This causes the other molecules to become unstable, setting up a process that damages cell function resulting in a loss of elasticity, slackness, discolouration and wrinkles.
What to look for: Green tea, grape seed (a superior ingredient that also enhances any SPF in the product), fumitory, liquorice, ascorbic acid, tocopherol, retinyl palmitate, ginkgo biloba and Japanese alder.

Anti-enzyme agents
These protect vital structures in the skin and also help maintain skin firmness and elasticity.
What to look for: Echinacea, hydrocotyl, grape seed extract, flavenoids and green tea.

Anti-inflammatories
These soothe, calm and reduce redness (so are great for acne and rosacea sufferers), and also stop itching.
What to look for: Liquorice, Canadian willow herb, green tea, silanediol salicylate, methylsilanol mannuronate, sage and red clover, avena sativa, cucumber and chamomile.

Cellular stimulants
These encourage healthy skin cells and also stimulate cell growth and activity.
What to look for: Ergothioneine, vitamin A, echinacea, sage and red clover, wheatgerm extract, bioflavenoids and corallina officinalis.

Exfoliants
A must for older skins, to stimulate cell renewal and remove dead skin cells from the surface. Regular use also improves penetration of any other active ingredients and helps reduce fine lines, pigmentation and dryness.
What to look for: Hydroxy acids (a word of caution: these are great fro sun damage, but a too-strong pH can cause sensitivity, so for best results consult a skincare specialist, vitamins, enzymes and abrasives.

Emollients and protectors
These remain on the skin's surface to act as a barrier and keep skin soft and smooth. Beware the cheapest emollients, mineral oil and lanolin, which can clog the skin and can cause irritation.
What to look for: Cyclomethicone, phospholipids, shea butter, algae extract, cyclopentasiloxane and retinyl palmitate.

Vitamins
Taking vitamin supplements may benefit the rest of you, but they won't do much for your skin, as your body considers it your least important organ. Much better are vitamins in a product, which go straight to where they are needed.
What to look for: Vitamin A reverses sun damage and stimulates collagen (retinyl palmitate and retinol). Vitamin B6 aids healing (panthenol). Vitamin E works as an antioxidant and protector (tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate). Vitamin P is great for rosacea, as it is an anti-inflammatory and also improves capillary strength (grape seed extrat, gingko and raspberry). Vitamin C is a powerful anti-oxidant which also stimulates collagen and brightens the skin (ascorbic acid and ascorbyl palmitate).