NAIL VARNISH

Manicured nails can be traced back some 4000 years to southern Babylon, where noblemen used solid gold implements to manicure their fingernails and toenails. But nail decoration goes back even further to 6000 years ago, when the Egyptians were decorating their nails by buffing them with henna, the deepest red indicating the highest status.

It is generally believed that the Chinese invented nail enamel some 5000 years ago, and the desire for very long nails first began during China's Ming dynasty (1368-1644). At this time, aristocratic women started to grow their nails up to 25cm (10in) long as a sign that they performed no manual labour. To protect their nails, they frequently sheathed them in gold or silver. Chinese men also grew long nails as a sign of their masculinity and to protect them from evil.

It is also known that the Romans were applying 'fingernail polish' made of animal fat and blood around AD 100.

Today, our fascination with long, beautiful nails continues to grow, and has been responsible for establishing a multi billion-dollar industry. Read on to find out everything you need to know about nail varnish.

Basecoat
Basecoat serves many purposes, including priming, giving protection and adding strength. Choosing a basecoat can be confusing, as many variations are available. Just remember that basecoat needs a clean, oil-free surface to adhere to, otherwise it will probably peel off almost as soon as it dries.









Basecoat and nail strengthener are essential to your nail care regimen.



Standard basecoats are primers that provide some strength, but their primary function is to assist nail varnish to glide on smoothly and to help to prevent darker shades from staining your nails.

When a basecoat contains added ingredients for strength it is known as nail strengthener.

Ridge fillers are basecoats containing silk, talc or other particles to help fill in depressions. If your nails are ridged or peeling at the tip, ridge fillers can be ensure a smooth finish.


Antifungal basecoats are formulated with ingredients that will help to kill micro-organisms that cause infection.

Nail fortifiers or nail-growth formulas consisting of clear varnish infused with epoxy or formaldehyde resins and polyvinyl butyral. Some contain calcium. Nail fortifiers can be worn under or over your nail varnish, or worn alone.




Topcoat
Topcoats are clear polish designed to protect your manicure from chipping, flaking and peeling. They are similar to basecoats but dry more quickly and usually feature a glossier finish.

Many nail technicians and manicurists suggest painting on a fresh layer of topcoat every day to extend the life of your manicure.

The perfect polish
Most people want beautiful nails, and whether they are short or long, a beautifully applied coating of coloured enamel is the finishing touch to your manicure. To begin with, always be sure your polish is fresh. Enamel that has been allowed to thicken will not apply thinly or evenly, will tend to bubble or streak, and will not adhere properly.

Polish thickens because it is volatile - that is, the solvents that keep it in a fluid state evaporate quickly when exposed to air. If a bottle remains open during application, or if it is exposed to heat, the solvents evaporate and the enamel becomes thick, gooey and stringy. Store polish in a cool, dark place away from heat and keep the neck of the bottle clean to prevent it from thickening.


Begin your application by turning the bottle upside down then rolling it between the palms of your hands (see opposite). Avoid shaking the bottle as this creates bubbles of air in the enamel, which might transfer to the finished surface after application.

The perfect polish is applied by first stroking a basecoat down the centre of the nail plate from cuticle to free edge, then stroking each side in turn. Three to four strokes on each nail are sufficient to distribute the varnish evenly. Additional stroking will only lift and move the enamel, leaving behind streaks and/or bare spots on the nail surface. Leave a tiny margin all around the cuticle and sides of each nail to ensure that the polish does not touch your skin and that it adheres properly to the nail plate.

Remember that oil is a separating medium and your skin contains oils and moisture, so it is best to remove all traces of oil with nail varnish remover before you start.

Apply the coloured enamel in the same manner, allowing enough time for each coat to dry. Apply a thin layer each time. If the pigments in the enamel are not even after the second coating, allow an extra minute before applying a third coat. The pigments in some red or metallic enamels tend to separate during application and may require a third coating for even colour distribution. Allow one to three minutes after the third coat before applying your topcoat or sealer.

Nail enamel dries from the first coat up to the last, and the solvents in the enamel must evaporate before the coatings become hardened. Pausing as long as you can between coatings will produce a smoother, more brilliant surface. If you apply coatings that are too thick or too close together, or you use enamel that has thickened with time, it will smudge, dent or peel from the nail entirely. Remember, applying the coatings too quickly is the main reason for uneven texture, and is especially pronounced in high temperatures and humidity.

ESSENTIAL POLISH TIPS

• Allow your nail varnish to dry slowly. Waiting for polish to dry can be tiresome, but the more slowly it dries, the better the finish. Forcing it to dry quickly by using heat or chemical dryers results in excessive shrinkage and cracking; heat causes the polish to expand and lift away from the nail. Formulations that use rapidly evaporating solvents tend to bubble and pit more, or produce uneven surfaces. Blowing on the polish will lower adhesion and gloss, so be patient.
• Do not count on glitter polish to stay on. The glitter itself does not adhere to nails, so tends to chip more quickly than conventional colours.
• Use a one-coat polish and a fast-drying topcoat only if you are in a rush. Otherwise, stick to regular formulations as they last longer, and to standard topcoats, which are shinier and give greater protection.