THE FRENCH MANICURE

This neutral look makes nails look clean and healthy and suits all occasion. Although it takes a lot of practice, it is worth the effort once you see the finished effect. Most polish ranges include soft pink and white shades that enable you to create an attractive French manicure.



FILE TO SHAPE

Follow the home manicure steps (see previous post) through to the filing process, then apply a thin basecoat.




PAINT TIPS WHITE

Apply white polish to the tip. Start at one side and sweep the loaded brush toward the centre of the nail in a diagonal swipe. Repeat from the other side. This will create a 'V' shape, which you can correct by filing the open top of the 'V'. Repeat on all nails.



APPLY SHEER COAT

When dry, apply sheer varnish (beige, clear or pink) over entire nail. Experiment with various colour options in order to create sophisticated variations on the classic French manicure.



TIPS

• A simpler option is to find some pre-cut, self-adhesive French manicure guides. Lift the edge of one strip and remove from the backing paper. Place it across the nail to divide the tip from the rest of the nail, leaving a small strip. Press down firmly to smooth out any ripples. Repeat on all nails. Apply white nail varnish to the nail tip and allow to dry. Remove guides and apply sheer vanish over entire nail.
• Another option is to run a white pencil under the free edges of your nails to accentuate the tips.

MANICURES: STEP BY STEP

The home manicure
_____________________

Taking care of your hands should be a regular part of your beauty routine. Try to schedule a home manicure every two or three weeks and allow time in-between for touch-ups. Travelling to a salon, getting a manicure and waiting for your nails to dry can sometimes take too long, so it often makes sense to do it yourself.


REMOVE ALL VARNISH
Partially saturate a cotton ball with varnish remover and work quickly to whisk off old varnish from the base of the nail to the tip. Try not smear the remover into the cuticle or the surrounding skin. Avoid removers that contain acetone (or any of its chemical relatives ), even if they have conditioners. Acetone and its cousins will usually dry out your nails. Quickly rinse off all traces of remover with warm water and dry thoroughly.


FILE TO SHAPE
Shape your nails by filing from one edge of the nail to the centre, and then from the other edge back to the centre. Always hold the emery board at a 45-degree angle so that you are filing mainly the underside of the nail. Repeat on all of your nails. Remember that the most natural and easiest-to-manage shape-not to mention the strongest-is a slightly squared oval. Try to mirror the shape of your nail at the base for the most flattering effect.



EXFOLIATE
Dampen your hands and massage them with an exfoliator. You could try a commercial product or a mixture of coarse sea-salt and essential oil to rev up circulation.






SOAK
Soak your fingers in a bowl of lukewarm water.






SCRUB
Scrub nails gently with a soft-bristled brush and dry hands thoroughly with a soft towel.






PUSH BACK CUTICLE
Apply cuticle oil or cuticle softener. Massage well into the base of the nails. Leave to work for a few minutes, then gently push cuticles back with a hoof stick or cottonwool-covered orange stick. Wipe off residue with a tissue and rinse nails in warm water to remove all cream/oil.



NIP EXCESS CUTICLE
Nip away any ragged excess cuticle or hangnails with a cuticle nipper. Be careful not to cut into the mantle, which can lead to infection.






MOISTURIZE CUTICLES
Moisturize cuticles with cuticle oil or moisturizer.









MASSAGE
Massage with hand cream (see the next post for the right massage technique).







USE WHITE PENCIL
Run a white pencil under your nails to brighten them.



APPLY VARNISH
Remove all signs of cream, then apply nail varnish in three coats: clear basecoat, followed by polish, topped with clear topcoat to lock in colour. Allow the basecoat to dry for three minutes before you start to apply polish. This acts as a foundation for the polish and helps prevent stains. Apply nail polish in two thin coats using three strokes from base to tip: first stroke polish up the centre, then stroke along each side. Let the first layer of colour dry for three minutes and the second for five minutes. Finally, brush on a topcoat to lock in colour and protect the polish.

OR BUFF TO SHINE
For an alternative to nail polish, try nail buffing. It will shine your nails and smooth ridges. For a natural gloss, buff nails gently in one direction, with downward strokes from the base to the free edge. Raise the buffer after each stroke. Do about 10 strokes on each nail.

BROKEN NAIL EMERGENCIES

When you tear a nail, tape it with plaster to preserve it until you can fix it.


The first thing to do with a broken nail is to secure it to prevent further damage until you can get home or to nail salon. If the nail is torn but not completely broken off, try wrapping the fingertip with tape or plaster-first up and over the tip and the around the nail. Make sure you keep a bit of slack inside so the nail is not bent. Bend-Aids especially for fingertips work best. If you use tape, first protect the nail surface with a bit of tissue so the tape will not stick to the nail. An added benefit of covering the fingertip is that you will naturally avoid using that finger, thus minimizing further damage.

Once you get home, use a small pair of scissors to gently cut away the tape. Now you can assess the damage. Do not pick at the nail. If it is just a slight tear on the side, you may get by simply with using extra coats of a nail strengthener containing nylon fibres. It may also be a good idea to shorten the nail slightly so it will less likely to bang into things, which would cause more damage.

If the nail is completely off, or torn more than one-quarter of the width of the nail, you need to take more serious measures. Keep an emergency nail repair kit on hand that contains both powdered and liquid acrylic, as well as a circular nail buffer.

1. Clean the nail with soap, then rinse it with water and allow it to dry completely.
2. Apply the acrylic, according to directions, in a thick coat that covers the entire nail. Let this dry completely, then very carefully buff the nail down to a smooth surface that forms a 'cap' over the broken nail. Keep the nail as short as possible; the longer the nail, the more likely you will bang and break it.
3. Apply a second coat and buff it down again. Some kits come with a thin silk or nylon sheet to be placed between the coats for added strength. Take your time to create a realistic cap over the nail.
4. Once dried, make sure you apply a coat of hardener with nylon fibres daily. When the natural nail has grown long enough, remove the cap by soaking it in polish remover and prying it off very carefully. Pry it a bit, then soak, then repeat as often as needed to get it off with the least damage.
5. This is not a perfect method, but it works well. Keep in mind that if you constantly remove the polish, you will weaken the cap with the polish remover and probably need to start the process all over again.
6. As the nail grows, the base may look a bit odd as the base of the cap becomes exposed. You may need to remove the polish and touch up the cap a bit on the edges; it is best just to leave it with the cap until it has grown enough to expose the natural nail.
7. Basically, if a nail breaks, accept that it will never be as good as new until it grows back naturally. Of course, the easier approach is to accept the loss and trim the other nails down a bit so it does not look so awkward until it grows back.

NAIL VARNISH

Manicured nails can be traced back some 4000 years to southern Babylon, where noblemen used solid gold implements to manicure their fingernails and toenails. But nail decoration goes back even further to 6000 years ago, when the Egyptians were decorating their nails by buffing them with henna, the deepest red indicating the highest status.

It is generally believed that the Chinese invented nail enamel some 5000 years ago, and the desire for very long nails first began during China's Ming dynasty (1368-1644). At this time, aristocratic women started to grow their nails up to 25cm (10in) long as a sign that they performed no manual labour. To protect their nails, they frequently sheathed them in gold or silver. Chinese men also grew long nails as a sign of their masculinity and to protect them from evil.

It is also known that the Romans were applying 'fingernail polish' made of animal fat and blood around AD 100.

Today, our fascination with long, beautiful nails continues to grow, and has been responsible for establishing a multi billion-dollar industry. Read on to find out everything you need to know about nail varnish.

Basecoat
Basecoat serves many purposes, including priming, giving protection and adding strength. Choosing a basecoat can be confusing, as many variations are available. Just remember that basecoat needs a clean, oil-free surface to adhere to, otherwise it will probably peel off almost as soon as it dries.









Basecoat and nail strengthener are essential to your nail care regimen.



Standard basecoats are primers that provide some strength, but their primary function is to assist nail varnish to glide on smoothly and to help to prevent darker shades from staining your nails.

When a basecoat contains added ingredients for strength it is known as nail strengthener.

Ridge fillers are basecoats containing silk, talc or other particles to help fill in depressions. If your nails are ridged or peeling at the tip, ridge fillers can be ensure a smooth finish.


Antifungal basecoats are formulated with ingredients that will help to kill micro-organisms that cause infection.

Nail fortifiers or nail-growth formulas consisting of clear varnish infused with epoxy or formaldehyde resins and polyvinyl butyral. Some contain calcium. Nail fortifiers can be worn under or over your nail varnish, or worn alone.




Topcoat
Topcoats are clear polish designed to protect your manicure from chipping, flaking and peeling. They are similar to basecoats but dry more quickly and usually feature a glossier finish.

Many nail technicians and manicurists suggest painting on a fresh layer of topcoat every day to extend the life of your manicure.

The perfect polish
Most people want beautiful nails, and whether they are short or long, a beautifully applied coating of coloured enamel is the finishing touch to your manicure. To begin with, always be sure your polish is fresh. Enamel that has been allowed to thicken will not apply thinly or evenly, will tend to bubble or streak, and will not adhere properly.

Polish thickens because it is volatile - that is, the solvents that keep it in a fluid state evaporate quickly when exposed to air. If a bottle remains open during application, or if it is exposed to heat, the solvents evaporate and the enamel becomes thick, gooey and stringy. Store polish in a cool, dark place away from heat and keep the neck of the bottle clean to prevent it from thickening.


Begin your application by turning the bottle upside down then rolling it between the palms of your hands (see opposite). Avoid shaking the bottle as this creates bubbles of air in the enamel, which might transfer to the finished surface after application.

The perfect polish is applied by first stroking a basecoat down the centre of the nail plate from cuticle to free edge, then stroking each side in turn. Three to four strokes on each nail are sufficient to distribute the varnish evenly. Additional stroking will only lift and move the enamel, leaving behind streaks and/or bare spots on the nail surface. Leave a tiny margin all around the cuticle and sides of each nail to ensure that the polish does not touch your skin and that it adheres properly to the nail plate.

Remember that oil is a separating medium and your skin contains oils and moisture, so it is best to remove all traces of oil with nail varnish remover before you start.

Apply the coloured enamel in the same manner, allowing enough time for each coat to dry. Apply a thin layer each time. If the pigments in the enamel are not even after the second coating, allow an extra minute before applying a third coat. The pigments in some red or metallic enamels tend to separate during application and may require a third coating for even colour distribution. Allow one to three minutes after the third coat before applying your topcoat or sealer.

Nail enamel dries from the first coat up to the last, and the solvents in the enamel must evaporate before the coatings become hardened. Pausing as long as you can between coatings will produce a smoother, more brilliant surface. If you apply coatings that are too thick or too close together, or you use enamel that has thickened with time, it will smudge, dent or peel from the nail entirely. Remember, applying the coatings too quickly is the main reason for uneven texture, and is especially pronounced in high temperatures and humidity.

ESSENTIAL POLISH TIPS

• Allow your nail varnish to dry slowly. Waiting for polish to dry can be tiresome, but the more slowly it dries, the better the finish. Forcing it to dry quickly by using heat or chemical dryers results in excessive shrinkage and cracking; heat causes the polish to expand and lift away from the nail. Formulations that use rapidly evaporating solvents tend to bubble and pit more, or produce uneven surfaces. Blowing on the polish will lower adhesion and gloss, so be patient.
• Do not count on glitter polish to stay on. The glitter itself does not adhere to nails, so tends to chip more quickly than conventional colours.
• Use a one-coat polish and a fast-drying topcoat only if you are in a rush. Otherwise, stick to regular formulations as they last longer, and to standard topcoats, which are shinier and give greater protection.
  
  

FAKING IT

False nails offer the ideal solution for women who battle to grow their own. There are now several techniques to make up for chewed or unsightly nails. The term 'artificial nail enhancement' includes any process that lengthens, thickens or otherwise alters the appearance of the natural nail by artificial means. These include the application of tips, acrylic liquid and powder systems, gel systems, sculpting on a form, any type of fabric wrap or even the application of a full preformed artificial nail.

Be aware that acrylic nails contain chemicals that can cause allergic reactions, damage nails and encourage fungal infections that may turn the bed of the nail green if used incorrectly. Acrylic nails prevent nail ventilation, allowing fungi and bacteria to grow. There is also some evidence that ingredients in acrylic nails can penetrate the nail's matrix.

Infection is not the only potential problem if you keep your nails permanently under wraps. Others are cracking, splitting and discoloration. If you decide that false nails are for you, take note of these nail-saving tactics:

• Avoid wearing false nails for more than a week at a time, and give your own nails at least two days' break in-between.
• If you notice any green or yellowish discoloration of the nail bed, consult your doctor or dermatologist; it could signify a fungal or bacterial infection.
• Be careful when cleaning under your nails; use a brush and soapy water or an ear-bud, never an orange stick, which can be quite sharp, unless covered with a twist of cottonwool.
• Replenish lost moisture by giving nails an oil massage.

Acrylic nails: To create acrylic nails, a nail technician mixes together two ingredients called powdered polymer and liquid monomer. When combined, the powder and liquid react to form a plastic-like paste. This is smoothed onto the nail, where it hardens. Note that the monomer used in acrylics is potentially irritating to sensitive skins.

Acrylic tips are sculpted on a form. Various types of guides can be used.


Acrylic Tips: Tips do not cover the entire nail but are attached midway up the natural nail, and the surface is later buffed down to hide the join. Acrylic is then placed over the entire nail and tip.

Built-tips: Oval paper or metal is inserted under the nail before acrylic is painted on and allowed to set. Finally, the tip is filed to your chosen shape.

Gel nails: These are created by applying layers of acrylic gel to the nail; the layers combine and harden to form a solid natural-looking nail enhancement.

False nails: These can be applied professionally in a salon or you can apply them at home, using an inexpensive nail enhancement kit. They come with their own adhesive and can be cut and filed to a shape and size suits you.

Stick-on nails: Pre-cast plastic nail shapes are applied with a special fixative or double-sided tape. They can be applied at home and look natural as long as you choose the right size. Most suppliers offer a variety of nail widths.

Patching: If you split or break a nail, it can be repaired with a patch that works on the same principle as a sticking plaster on skin. Inexpensive DIY repair-a-nail kits are available for you to use at home, or patches can be applied at a salon by a professional.

Wraps: To ad a stronger layer to the nail to help nails grow longer without breaking or splitting, nail wraps use sheets of fibreglass, linen, or silk. To create nail wraps, a nail technician takes small pieces of fabric mesh and sticks them to your nails with and adhesive. After buffing the surface to smooth it, a sealant is applied to keep out moisture and discourage the wrap from lifting. Wraps can also be used to rescue a single broken nail.












Try stick-on nails for an instant lift: to look natural choose the right size.

STEP-BY-STEP MANICURE

Looking after your hardworking nails can be relaxing experience. Allow time for a manicure every 7-14 days, with weekly time for touch-ups. When performed correctly, a manicure will protect your nails and help improve your image. If a DIY manicure is not for you, look at the pointers for what you can expect at a salon (see next post). However, with practice, it is not difficult to achieve an expert, professional-looking manicure. Follow these steps methodically and meticulously to create good-looking, immaculate nails. And remember, a man's manicure is exactly the same, except for the application of nail polish.

Remove all traces of old enamel by moistening some cottonwool with the remover of your choice. Press it onto the nail and hold for a few seconds, then swipe it toward the free edge. Change cottonwool often, as the remover cannot perform well if it is saturated with old enamel. Dark-pigmented enamels are hardest to remove, and the old polish may get on your skin or underneath the free edge. If this happens, wrap a small piece of cottonwool on the end of an orange stick, saturate it with remover, and clean the enamel from the cuticle line and under the free edge of the nail.

Use a coarse-grade emery board to remove length or perfect the free edge or tip by filing from the outside corner to the centre of the nail. Never saw back and forth across the tip; this can disrupt the nail-plate layers and cause splitting and peeling. The ideal shape of the free edge should mirror the shape of the cuticle, i.e. oval cuticle=oval free edge.

To seal the tip, use the three way buffer: the black part to refine, the white part to semi-shine and the grey part to finish. This will seal the layers of the free edge in order to further prevent any splitting or peeling.

Apply cuticle softener (cream, oil or lotion) all around the cuticle area. Then immerse your nails in the soaking dish for no more than three minutes; soaking for longer will fully saturate the nail plate, causing it to swell.

Remove the fingers from the soaking dish. Holding the orange stick or metal cuticle pusher much as you would a pencil, push the cuticle skin from the nail-plate surface back toward the live tissue. Do not use downward force, which could cause damage to the nail matrix.

Holding the cuticle nippers/scissors in one hand, nip or clip any loose tags of skin you were unable to remove with the cuticle pusher. Never cut live skin; be very careful to trim only the dead tissue. If no translucent tissue has been pushed from the nail plate, or there are no tags of dead skin, there is no need to trim anything.

Using the orange stick or the curved end of the metal cuticle pusher, clean under the free edge of the nail, but be careful - any tear or break in the seal between the nail plate and the nail bed is the perfect entry point for bacterial micro-organisms that may cause an infection.

At this point , you may wish to exfoliate your hands by dispensing a small amount of sloughing lotion into the palm of one hand. Distribute it evenly between your palms, then massage into the palms of the hand and fingers, being especially gentle with the back of the hands. Massage for just a few minutes, then rinse or wipe clean with a wet towel and dry thoroughly.

Apply moisturizing lotion, and massage it into the skin until it is completely absorbed.

Do not file the nail plate as this may cause splitting and cracking. You may buff at this stage to get a natural shine, but do not file ridges to smooth them. Rather use a ridge filler to smooth out the nails. To buff, use the three-way buffer; using the three sides in turn creates a high-gloss shine and helps to seal the nail-plate surface from staining and dehydration by 'plasticizing' the surface layer.

Wash, rinse and dry your hands and nails to remove all surface traces of nail filings, lotions or oils. If your skin and nails are excessively oily and you have used any type of oil, lotion or cream during your manicure process, you may wish to swipe the nail plate with a dampened pad to be sure all traces have been removed. Enamel will not adhere successfully to an oily surface.

Begin your polish application with one thin basecoat. Always use a basecoat, which is designed to adhere to the nail plate to protect and seal the surface and bond with the coloured polish. Choose a basecoat suitable for your nail type - for example, a nail hardener for weak nails or a ridge filler for uneven nails.

Allow one minute for the basecoat to dry, then apply two thin coats of enamel, allowing one minute between coatings.

Finish with a thin application of topcoat to seal the surface. The inherent hardness of the topcoat will help to keep the polish fresh for a little longer.

THE ULTIMATE MANICURE

If you are serious in your quest for beautiful nails, you need the right tools for the job. While nothing beats the indulgence of having your nails done professionally, you can also give yourself a manicure at home. All you need are the right tools and the know-how you will find in this post.





Manicure Kit Essentials

Manicure kit essentials _____________________________________________________________
Acetone-free polish remover: to remove nail polish before the manicure begins. Avoid acetone or its chemical relatives, which damage the surface of the nail, affecting the lustre, and weakening and thinning the nail plate.

Aromatherapy oils: for a relaxing mood or to relieve stress.

Cotton balls: for removing nail polish, and for wrapping orange sticks to push back your cuticles. Cotton balls are very absorbent and do not leave fibre behind.

Cuticle softeners: these include both cuticle cream and cuticle oil. Softening cuticles makes them easier to push back. Softeners also loosen stubborn skin stuck to the nail bed. They come in formulations from clear liquids you paint on to thick creams you massage into the cuticle. Avoid products containing potassium hydroxice , which can damage nails.

1. Cuticle cream: smoothing a specially blended cream around the cuticle area softens the surrounds and prevents hangnails from developing. These usually contains fats and waxes, such as lanolin, cocoa butter, petroleum jelly and beeswax.
2. Cuticle oil: vitamin E-enriched oils and sweet almond oil, applied regularly, will condition the cuticle area and maintain it at optimum health. Cuticle oils may also contain mineral oil, jojoba oil and palm nut oil.

Emery boards: a coarsely grained, double-sided one is best to shorten or smooth nails, a fine-grained version for final smoothing.

Finger bowl: for soaking fingernails; fill it with warm, soapy water.

Hand lotion: to promote supple skin by hydrating and helping to seal moisture into the skin.

Hand towel: for drying your hands, and to place under your hands as you apply nail polish.

Hoof stick: a manicure stick with a rubber tip shaped like a hoof, used to push back your cuticles.

Nailbrush: use a nailbrush in the morning and evening for cleaning hands, nails and cuticles. Replace it when bristles lose their density.

Nail buffer: these come in all shapes and sizes, usually combining three buffing surfaces that help to smooth any ridges from nail surfaces, as well as to add sheen. Used gently in a swift back-and forth manner, they will smooth, shine and buff the nails to give an excellent finish.

Nail cleansers: usually a liquid soap that is added to the water in the finger bowl.

Nail scissors: more gentle on the nails, scissors are often preferred to clippers for ultimate precision.

Nipper: this is a useful tool for trimming hangnails and should feature a pointed tip to allow a precise trim.

Orange stick: use an orange stick (traditionally made of orange-wood) wrapped in cottonwool to push back cuticles. It can be used instead of the nailbrush to clean under the nail.

Clear basecoat: to provide a foundation for the nail polish.

Clear or tinted nail polish: the main coat of polish in the colour of your choice; a clear polish will last longer without showing chips or peels.

Topcoat: a protective and durable coating for the polish. It lengthens the lifespan of coloured polish because it helps to prevent chipping.

White pencil: gently drawing the pencil under damp nails will help to stimulate the attractive look of a French manicure.

NAIL DISEASES AND DISORDERS

Nail infections and diseases can be caused by a number of different conditions. If you have a badly infected nail, see a dermatologist.










FUNGAL/YEAST INFECTION



Fungal or yeast infections
These can invade the superficial layers of the skin, resulting in infection. Usually germinating their spores alongside the edges of finger - and toenails, some fungal infections caused by microscopic plants invade through a tear in the nail fold. These are normally white or yellowish in colour and affect the texture and shape of the nail as the fungus eats away at the keratin protein of the nail plate. As the infection develops, the nail may darken and discolour, becoming thickened and crumbly.

The first step to treating the problem effectively is to have it diagnosed correctly. Poor hygiene can cause fungus to develop. Sterilize the tools in your nail kit using an antibacterial spray and never go to a salon that does not sterilize implements after every client.

If a fungus problem persists, consult a dermatologist. Finally, try to avoid biting your nails as this will increase your risk of infection.










CONTACT DERMATITIS


Contact dermatitis
This is an allergic reaction to certain substances touching your skin. Symptoms are itching, redness and dryness. When it affects nails and surrounding skin, it is probably caused by irritants such as adhesives, monomers or primers used to secure acrylic nails. Stop using the irritating substance or consult a dermatologist if you are not sure of the cause.

The condition may be confused with psoriasis or onychomycosis, which is an infectious disease caused by fungus, resulting in white patches that can be scraped off the nail, or yellowish streaks within the nail.

Deformed nail plate
A nail plate that is shaped like a spoon and is white or opaque is often caused by age, but can also provide clues to common medical problems such as eczema, tumours, anaemia, or chronic infection. The index, ring and middle fingers are most affected. Treat infected nails gently, as the nail plate will be fragile.










HAEMATOMA




Haematoma
Haematoma (or bruised nails) is a condition in which a clot of blood forms between the nail plate and the nail bed. It varies in colour from a dark red to black, and in some cases the nail plate will separate and become infected. New growth will depend on the extent of the damage.

It is usually caused by trauma from impact, such as being hit on the nail with a hammer or, as is common in runners, friction from ill-fitting shoes. Relieve pressure by puncturing the nail with a heated needle to prevent nail loss.

Koilonychia
Commonly known as spoon nails, this is usually caused by an iron deficiency. The nails appear thin and concave, and can exhibit raised ridges. Sudden changes in nail shape may point to internal health problems; consult your GP.

Melanonychia
This is usually associated with vertical pigmented brown or black stripes, or nail 'moles', that form in the nail matrix. This sudden change in the nail plate could indicate a malignant melanoma or lesion that requires medical advice. That said, dark streaks are a fairly frequent and normal occurrence in dark-skinned people.

Onychatrophis
This is also known as atrophy, or wasting away of the nail plate. The nail loses its shine, shrinks and sometimes even falls off. The problem can be caused by injury or inter disease, as well as nutritional or hereditary factors.

Handle this condition carefully. File nails with a fine emery board and avoid using metal pushers, aggressive detergents and soaps. New nails may grow back once any disease is cured.

Onychauxis
Onychauxis, or hypertrophy, is the overgrowth of nails - a thickening and curving of the nail plate. It is usually caused by internal imbalances, local infection and in some case hereditary factors. File and buff the nail smooth.











ONYCHOGRYPHOSIS



Onychogryphosis
This is a condition where the nail plate becomes thick and claw-like, curving inward and sometimes extending over the tip of the finger. Often caused by trauma, it pinches the nail bed painfully. You may need surgery to ease the pain.











PARONYCHIA




Paronychia
Also called a whitlow, this chronic infection of the tissue surrounding the nail results in redness, inflammation and tenderness. Caused by a bacterial or yeast infection, it can occur at the base of the nail, around the whole nail or on the tips of the fingers.

You will be more prone to this problem if you pull your hangnails, suck your thumb or bite your nails. Having your hands in water for extended periods also increases your risk, so wear gloves and get medical advice on the appropriate treatment.











PSEUDOMONAS


Pseudomonas
This bacterial infection occurs between the natural nail plate and nail bed. In some cases it occurs between an artificial nail coating and the natural nail plate, especially if worn for extended periods without allowing the natural nail to breathe. It thrives in moist dark places, feeding off dead tissue and bacteria in the nail plate.

Usually, the darker the discoloration, the further into the nail layers the bacteria have travelled. Once treated, it will take several months for the stain to grow out.

Always dry your hands thoroughly as any additional moisture levels allow these bacteria to flourish. Try applying one drop of tea tree oil on the affected area or soak in a 5 per cent solution several times a day for a few days. An infected nail needs to be analyzed; depending on the cause, an antifungal or antibacterial remedy might need to be applied. If severe, consult a dermatologist.








PSORIASIS



Psoriasis
This skin condition is characterized by round, reddish dry spots and patches covered with silvery scales. When it affects the nail plate , the nail becomes pitted and dry and may change colour and separate from the nail bed. If severe, the nail plate may disintegrate completely. If psoriasis affects your nails, consult a dermatologist for treatment.

Pterygium
This is common condition describes the abnormal growth of the cuticle over the nail plate. It is usually caused by trauma to the matrix and may even result in the loss of the nail. Never try to remove the pterygium yourself; rather consult a doctor for advice and treatment.












SEPARATION FROM NAIL BED


Separation from the nail bed
When the nail separates from the nail bed, the cause may be trauma or a thyroid disorder, but most often the origin is unknown. Carefully trim away the separated nail and seek medical advice.