AGE REFINING TECHNOLOGY

As we age, our faces begin to show the effects of gravity, sun exposed and years of facial muscle movement. Despite the slew of products and advanced technology available today, there is only so much we can do to curb this. Dramatic results can be achieved with face-lifts and reshaping, but there are less-invasive rejuvenating techniques like freezing, filling and polishing. While one needs to accept the inevitable changes tat come with age, there is no reason why one should not make use of the sophisticated cosmetic procedures and techniques available.

There are so many options, however, that you will need to do some homework. All surgery carries some risk and even less-invasive techniques can have side-effects. Use reputable, certified professionals. Get recommendations or contact the dermatological or plastic surgeons association in your country. Know what can and cannot be improved and allow for recovery time. There are quick procedures such as 'lunch-time peels', while other treatments leave your skin red and inflamed for a few days and will require some time off.

Though surgery can have dramatic results, remember that beauty really does start within. Look after what you have and celebrate your uniqueness.

Whatever method you choose to rejuvenate your face, you should aim to create natural-looking results. Always consult a registered dermatologist or plastic surgeon, and be realistic about what the procedures can and cannot achieve.

There are three types of wrinkles. Static wrinkles are with you all the time, even when your face is at rest. Dynamic wrinkles are created by your facial expressions, and folds are lines that develop when the skin folds are lines that develop when the skin loses its youthful elasticity and begins to sag. Examples of the latter include droopy eyebrows, bags below the eyes, jowls and nasolabial folds (between the corners of your mouth and the sides of the nose). Various non-invasive techniques can help to improve these and they can be used in conjunction with surgery.

Botox injections have become a popular lunch-time fix; other than the possibility of some redness and very slight swelling at the site, patients can immediately resume their activities.

FREEZERS
Botox has become the treatment of choice to get rid of expression lines - those that form when you frown, smile or laugh. Botox is a neurotoxin produced from the botulinum bacteria. When injected into a muscle, it acts as a nerve impulse blocker, temporarily paralyzing the muscles and so keeping them from contracting.

Because it 'freezes' the expression muscles, your ability to move the muscle temporarily disappears along with the wrinkles. Botox is most effective on frown lines, forehead lines and crow's feet (on the outer corners of the eyes). The procedure is painless - just a needle prick, but a topical anaesthetic cream can be used if the client prefers or if multiple sites are planned.

The procedure takes about 10 minutes and the effect takes about four days to a week to kick in. It lasts from three to six months and must be repeated to maintain results. Injections can cause redness and swelling at the injection site and it's advisable not to do anything too strenuous on the day of treatment; nonetheless you can go about your business almost immediately. In rare cases, Botox injections too close to the eyelid muscles can cause the eye area to droop temporarily.

FILLERS
Soft-fillers are injected into the skin to fill lines and wrinkles and build or plump up areas like the lips and cheeks. There are temporary and permanent fillers, as well as exogenous (foreign substances such as collagen) and autologous (one's own tissue or fat) implants. The fat-injection procedure involves extracting fat cells from the patient's abdomen, thighs, buttocks or elsewhere, and re-injecting them beneath the facial skin. This method is usually used to fill in cheeks and lips or to fill laugh lines between the nose and mouth or on the forehead. As the fat is taken from the person's own body, there is no reaction because the immune system immediately recognizes the tissue.

The disadvantages of foreign collagen implants (extracted from cow skin or human cadaver) are that they only last for two or six months, and that skin testing is required in order to avoid possible allergic reactions.

The more popular temporary filling method is with hyaluronic acid (such as Restylane, Hylaform, Perlane). Hyaluronic acid is a substance that occurs naturally in the skin, so allergic reactions are rare. Injected into the skin in tiny amounts with a very thin needle, the gel adds natural volume under the wrinkle. The product is biodegradable and so will gradually be absorbed. As the gel breaks down, water takes its place and when it is totally absorbed, the gel disappears unnoticed from the body. The procedure takes up to half an hour.

After the treatment you could experience some swelling, tenderness and redness, but these symptoms will disappear in two to four days. How long the effect lasts depends on the individual, but it is generally effective for up to six months after lip augmentation, and up to 12 months after facial contouring.

Invasive rejuvenation treatments can tax the body. Regard them as you would minor surgery and allow your system enough time to recuperate.

Other filler materials being used include Fibril, a gelatin powder compound that's mixed with the patient's own blood and is injected to plump up the skin; GORE-TEX®, a thread like material that is implanted beneath the skin to add soft-tissue support; and Zyderm (a bovine collagen) and Zyplast (a cross-linked form of collagen), which are used to improve the appearance of wrinkles, scars and to add volume to the lips. Injectable fillers are not permanent and the body will eventually process the injected material. How long it lasts differs from person to person.



All invasive skincare procedures carry same risk. It is vital to consult a registered skincare professional and ensure you are getting the right treatment for your particular concern.



MICRODERMABRASION
Often referred to as the 'lunch time peel', microdermabrasion is a skin polishing technique that uses microparticles to abrade and rub off the top skin layer, removing the particles of dead skin to give i t a smoother appearance. The operator uses a handheld device that blasts fine particles of sand-like crystals (aluminium oxide or table salt) against the skin and vacuums away the used crystals, dirt and dead surface skin. It takes only 20 to 30 minutes for a full-face treatment and can also be used on the neck and chest.

There may be mild redness, which can be covered up with make-up and fades after a couple of hours. This procedure is not painful (there may be a slight tingling) and won't lighten or darken black skin as some strong exfoliating treatments do. It is recommended for smoothing away roughness, fine lines, sun-damaged or pigmented skin, age spots, scarring from acne, accidents or previous surgery, and even precancerous growths. Microdermabrasion exfoliates skin faster and more efficiently than any salon facial and penetrates the skin more deeply than a glycolic acid peel. It is not recommended as a treatment for crow's feet because, if used too close to the eyes, the crystals can cause eye irritation and the delicate eyelid skin can be damaged by the machine's suction.


INTENSE PULSED LIGHT THERAPY (IPL)
A fairly new, convenient and thus increasingly popular alternative to laser skin resurfacing and chemical peeling is the use of intense pulsed light. With this type of therapy, an intensive light source is directed towards the surface of the skin. It spreads in all directions and there is no danger of burning or scarring as there is with regular laser.

This therapy is particularly effective for rejuvenating the skin, not just superficially but in the deeper levels, too. The light pulses are adjustable in wavelength and duration so that a variety of tasks can be performed and objectives achieved.

Intense pulsed light therapy helps to improve redness (it's particularly effective in the treatment of rosacea); reduce broken capillaries, brown spots, UV damage, fine wrinkles and large pores. It can even out skin tone and firm the skin. One of its biggest advantages is that there is no down time. Each treatment takes approximately 20 minutes and patients can return to their daily activities immediately afterwards. There is also minimal discomfort - no anaesthesia or topical anaesthetic cream is needed.

This, coupled with an absence of scars and ease of treatments, makes an attractive number of advantages over laser skin resurfacing, chemical peeling, or microdermabrasion. Aftercare is customized to each patient's individual skin sensitivity. This rejuvenation technology is certainly cutting edge and very exciting. As with all of these procedures, it must only be administered by a skilled and qualified professional and a series of treatment is recommended to get the best possible results.

Age, gravity, sun exposure, smoking and stress changes the way a face looks. Creases form and it begins to lose its youthful definition.

CHEMICAL SKIN PEELS
These peels use a chemical solution to smooth the texture of the skin by removing the damaged outer layers. There are various kinds available. Alpha hydroxy acids are usually the mildest of the formulas. They can be used to remove the top layer of skin to treat fine lines, even out skin tone and uneven pigmentation and smooth acne scars. They also stimulate cell metabolism, increasing the skin's natural functions. The process takes about 10 minutes. The cons: it can irritate the skin, and you have to undergo a series of treatments to reap the benefits.

Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) is most commonly used for medium-depth peeling to smooth out fine surface wrinkles, blemishes and uneven pigmentation problems. The treatment takes 10 to 15 minutes and can be used on the neck and body. Although healing is quicker than a phenol peel, the results are usually less dramatic and not as long lasting. Repeated treatments may be needed to maintain results.

Phenol is the strongest of the chemical solutions and is used mainly to treat patients with deep wrinkles, sun-damaged skin or precancerous growths on the face. It is more suitable for fair skins as there is a high risk of loss of pigment. A full-face treatment may take an hour or more.

Recovery is slow, complete healing sometimes taking several months. Although the results are dramatic and can last for decades, your skin will never tan again and extreme caution must be taken in the sun.

LASER RESURFACING
Laser facial resurfacing (laser peeling) can be used to smooth skin at almost any age. The top layer of skin is peeled away while the collagen underneath is thickened and reformed. When your skin heals, it looks brighter and plumper. Laser works well on sun-damaged skin, brown spots, fine lines and veins. It does not improve sagging and so is often recommended in conjunction with a face-lift. Laser resurfacing works by directing an intense beam of laser light back and forth over the area being treated. Each pass of the light vaporizes the upper layers of damaged skin and causes the skin to contract. This result in tightening of the collagen and elastic fibres of the dermis, producing a new skin layer that is tighter, firmer and more youthful looking. There are many types of lasers: CO2 and erbium are among the more popular ones. The CO2 is the most aggressive (and effective) treatment for skin that is severely aged or scarred. It is essentially a powerful beam of light that vaporizes the top layers of the skin on contact, prompting it to rebuild itself from the bottom up. It can take from 10 minutes to more than an hour, and must always be performed by a qualified surgeon.

Recovery takes about 10 days, during which time the skin is very swollen, raw and oozing. Crusts form that will eventually fall off. There will be pain, similar to that of severe sunburn, for a few days. Because of the risk of hyperpigmentation, this type of laser treatment is not recommended for darker skin.

The erbium also vaporizes the outer layers of skin, but it resurfaces with less heat, so healing takes place in about a week, with most redness fading within 7-14 days. This type of laser is good for wrinkles, acne scars, sun damage, and irregular pigmentation, but not quite effective as the CO2. It is, however, much gentler, has fewer side effects, requires a shorter recovery period and can be used on dark skins.

IS SURGERY FOR YOU?
There is no doubt that a face-lift or liposculpture can make an enormous difference not only to a person's face, but also to their self-esteem. If you choose plastic surgery, then follow this advice:

• Be sure of your decision.
• Go to a qualified and reputable surgeon with whom you feel comfortable.
• Be realistic in your expectations. Resurfacing and Botox will improve the overall appearance of your skin's quality; surgery deals with skin quantity and can be used to elevate and reshape sagging contours.
• Get clear answers to all your questions.
• Be aware of the risks associated with surgery.
• Know the full cost and be aware of all the implications before you commit.
• Look after your face and body prior to surgery and follow all post-operative instructions.

PROBLEM SKIN

Most of us are born with perfect skin. While a lucky few manage to maintain a clear complexion over the years, most of the rest have experienced a few unwanted changes. For some it may be small irritations such as breakouts, dark patches after a pregnancy or enlarged pores. For others, it may be a more severe skin condition, like eczema or acne. Everyone experiences marks and blemishes on their skin at some point.

Some are permanent, others tend to come and go. Most will be of no importance , while some may require a professional opinion. While you can never regain the skin you were born with, there are many things you can do to improve your lot and treat a problem. The key is getting to know and understand your skin, so that you are able to identify what needs to be done. Make a habit of checking your skin regularly. If you tend to problem skin, be aware of your diet and lifestyle choices - they may well be the underlying cause. Also realize and accept that your skin is constantly changing and that you may need to adapt your skincare routine accordingly.

Histamines are chemicals in your body's tissues. When released, they cause an allergic reaction, which is your body's way of trying to expel a perceived invader.

CROSS SECTION OF A BLACKHEAD









If left alone, blackheads will simply stay in the skin. Remove them by gently steaming the area and then 'easing' the plug out.


All about acne
Age is not a sure guarantee against pimples or acne. In fact, many people only experience acne for the first time in their adult years; recent studies show that 40-50% of adults between the ages of 20-40 are diagnosed with low-grade persistent acne.

The exact cause of acne cannot be pinpointed. A number of factors seem to have an effect, including genetics, hormones, physiology, stress and the use of certain cosmetics. This type of acne ranges from a few isolated spots to severe breakouts, which can leave unsightly scars. Acne results when the sebaceous (oil) glands secrete too mush sebum into the hair follicle, which is lined with dead cells. The combination of excess sebum and dead cells clog up the pores, which are the pipelines for the natural flow of oil to the skin's surface. As a result bacteria build up, the area becomes inflamed, and spots or pimples may appear.

Acne most commonly occurs where the sebaceous glands are most active - on the face, neck, chest and back. A variety of blemishes result:

• Whiteheads form when oil and dead cells accumulate and block the pores from opening onto the surface of the skin.
• Blackheads are similar to whiteheads, except the blocked material protrudes above the skin, dilating the pore. The black colour is due to the oxidization process that occurs within the follicle.
• Papules are inflammations under the skin. When the sebum build-up becomes too much, the follicle expands and eventually bursts, releasing the sebum and dead cell build-up onto the surface of the skin. White blood cells then attack this material, forming pus, and a pustule results.
• Cysts occur when inflammation spreads deep into the skin. To contain it, the cells automatically form a fibrous capsule around it. Cysts can continue to grow slowly under the skin and usually need to be surgically removed.
• Scars result when damaged sin tries to heal itself. Naturally, scars can be severely aggravated by picking or squeezing.

Do not be tempted to remove skin impurities such as blackheads by harsh squeezing or without preparing your skin first.

FACT OR FICTION?
Chocolate and fatty foods cause acne. There is no scientific evidence to indicate that diet plays a determining role. The 'westernized' diet is high in preservatives, colourants and processed foods and supports the most acne-prone populations. The Asian and Mediterranean populations, however, generally eat more fatty acids and far less processed foods. Although acne is less common in these areas, the role of genetic factors is unclear.

Acne is due to poor hygiene. The blackheads we see are a result of an oxidization process that turn the sebum and dead cells black in colour. It is not dirt. In fact, over-cleansing can aggravate acne.

Sunlight improves acne. The sun can seem to improve the complexion, but it also suppresses the immune system. That is why acne often seems to get worse a few weeks after sun exposure. The sun also stimulates sebum secretion. It is more advisable to wear an oil-free sunscreen.




Although more common in teenagers than any other age group, acne can occur at any time in life. The causes are still not completely understood.


WHAT CAUSES ACNE?
Hormones
Throughout your life, hormones will play a very important role in determining the ups and downs of your skin. Oestrogen is an important skin regulator, and an excess of male hormones can cause acne. Men and women both produce male hormones (androgen and testosterone) and female hormones (oestrogen and progesterone) - only the ratio of these hormones differ between the sexes. When the levels of androgen increase - during puberty, ovulation, menstruation and childbirth, for example - the skin produces more oil and acne can result.

Diet
There is not enough evidence to suggest that acne and diet are related, but some people find that certain foods make their acne worse. Common culprits include chocolate, caffeine, nuts, high-fat and spicy foods, citrus fruits, refined foods, dairy products, and foods with a high iodide content, such as artichokes, seaweed, spinach and shellfish. Certain medications can also cause a flare-up.

Stress
Stress triggers the adrenal glands to release the hormone cortisol, which increases the secretion of sebum. Stress inducers include skimping on sleep, skipping meals and ingesting too much caffeine. All these factors trigger the adrenaline in your body to mobilize stored nutrients, which in turn slows down natural exfoliation processes. The remedy? Get enough sleep, follow a balanced diet, drink plenty of water, and cut down on caffeine and high-fat foods. In severe cases or if there is no change, consult a skincare professional.

Did you know?
Skin that is irritated by a cleanser or moisturizer reacts by forming a protective layer by adhering more skin cells onto the surface.

TREATING ACNE-PRONE SKIN
The best way to treat acne is by preventing new spots while treating existing ones. It can often be treated effectively with nonprescription, over-the-counter products.

• A regular purifying and cleansing routine will help remove excess sebum on the skin's surface, a breeding ground for bacteria. Try using a daily gentle antibacterial wash to help cleanse bacteria from the skin, combined with a beta hydroxy acid such as salicylic acid, which stimulates the skin's natural exfoliation process. As dead cells become 'unstuck', there is less chance of clogged pores. Salicylic acid also helps to curb an oily shine.
• Even oily skin needs daily moisture. If your skin is very oily, choose a lightweight lotion to replace moisture without adding oil. Make sure the product you buy is oil-free or noncomedogenic, which means it won't block pores. If you wear make-up, look out for foundations that 'mattify' or control oil, as they will help eliminate shine.
• Remember that fingers dipped into shared products increase the risk of contamination. If possible, opt for products that are specially sealed or have pump dispensers.
• Benzoyl peroxide is a fast-zapping, nonprescription ingredient that is particularly effective at speeding up the drying up and peeling of spots. It is available in varying strengths and should be introduced at low concentrations as it can be very drying and may cause allergies.
• If your acne does not respond to nonprescription remedies (give it at least six weeks), it is best to go for a medical diagnosis with a dermatologist who can prescribe a stronger formulation. Antibiotics can be taken orally (erythromycin and tetracycline are commonly used) or applied topically. The two other proven acne treatments are Retin-A and Roaccutane. Retin-A is an imitation of retinoic acid, the naturally occurring form of vitamin A found in the skin. Its main action is keratolytic, which means it acts as a peeling agent that loosens dead surface cells. Retin-A is a very powerful drug that only needs to be applied to the acne areas in very small doses. The problem is that retinoic acid can be irritating and drying, and causes increased sensitivity to the sun and any other products applied to the skin. Retinoid isotretinoin (Roacccutane) is a synthetic version of vitamin A that is taken orally once or twice a day for four months. It is extremely effective, but the side effects include dryness and increased skin sensitivity. Very strict birth control need to be practised while taking Roaccutane as it can cause major birth defects.

Medication is reserved for more persistent cases of acne and should always be taken under supervision.

Common Problems
ROSACEA
Rosacea is often referred to as 'acne rosacea' but is not the same as acne. Characterized by red and inflamed skin, particularly on the cheeks, nose, forehead and chin, it may begin as a tendency to blush or flush easily and progresses to persistent redness. Small blood vessels and tiny pimples may also occur. It is most common in women between the ages of 30 and 50 and some cases have been associated with menopause. The exact cause in unknown, although it is believed to be due to a disorder of the blood vessels, which become oversensitive to stimulation.

Heat and sunlight may aggravate it as they stimulate the release of chemicals that encourage the blood vessels to enlarge. Rosacea is not caused by excessive alcohol, but can be aggravated by it as alcohol causes the blood vessels to dilate. Severe cases are sometimes accompanied by burning of the eyes. Treatment includes oral and topical antibiotics, good sun protection practices and avoiding extreme temperatures and spicy food.

Cortisone creams may reduce the redness of rosacea, however, they must only be used under the supervision of a dermatologist and for no longer than two weeks at a time as they can thin the skin. Red wine, oranges and caffeine may also aggravate rosacea, as do scrubbing or rubbing the face and irritating facial products. It can become worse without treatment.








Eczema generally causes dry and itchy patches of skin.






ECZEMA
Eczema, also called dermatitis, describes a family of itchy, red skin conditions. Atopic eczema is an illness (usually an allergy) that runs in the family. It is the most common form of eczema and is characterized by chronic dryness, redness, chapping and itching. It usually appears firs during childhood and most patients recover before the age of 25, although some live with it their entire lives. It generally runs in families who also suffer from other allergies such as hay fever and asthma. In teens and young adults, the spots usually break out where the elbow bends, on the backs of the knees, ankles, wrists and on the face, neck and upper chest.

It is important not to scratch as this can lead to infection. Atopic eczema can be partly relieved by avoiding irritants like feathers and wool blankets; dogs, birds and cats; harsh detergents; and certain foods such as wheat, dairy and chocolate. Stress can also exacerbate the condition. Some over-the-counter products can relieve the itching, while topical steroid creams help soothe and calm the skin. It is best to consult a dermatologist for the correct diagnosis and treatment.


If, unlike this woman, you suffer from atopic dermatitis, you should wash newly bought clothes before wearing them and keep your pets outdoors. Children should avoid fuzzy toys and blankets.

PSORIASIS
This chronic skin disease is caused by an overproduction of cells in the epidermis and ineffective desquamation (shedding of these cells), the combination of which causes cells to accumulate and form red, scaly patches, especially around the elbows, knees, and scalp. Psoriasis tends to run in families and is not contagious. Mild or average cases can be treated with a prescription cream or lotion. If it is severe, your dermatologist may prescribe medication or light therapy. Although psoriasis can be contained, it is unlikely to be permanently cured.

DID YOU KNOW?
Viruses that sit on the skin's surface and penetrate the stratum corneum when it is damaged cause warts. They can be passed from person to person and are most common on the fingers and feet.

VITILIGO
This skin disease manifests as white patches on the surface of the skin. The patches are due to a loss of pigment, but dermatologists are not entirely sure what causes this. Vitiligo usually appears on the face, lips, hands, arms, legs and genital areas, but can appear anywhere on the body. The amount of colour a person loses varies: people with a light-coloured skin usually see the difference between patches of vitiligo and tanned skin in summer. For people with darker skin, vitiligo is quite visible all year round.

The most common way to treat it is with light therapy and medicine. It is also possible to hide the marks by using special cosmetic camouflage products. Very often, such products are also water-resistant.

PIGMENTATION
Unbalanced pigmentation is very common and may be a result of years of sun-worshipping or skin trauma. As discussed previously, the skin has pigment-producing cells called melanocytes that determine skin tone. Dark skins have larger melanin granules, which means more in-built protection, and so are more resistant to sun damage. Fairer skins have less melanin and thus are more likely to develop brown patches from sun exposure. However, skin with more melanin tends to have more hyperpigmentation related to scarring.

While pigmentation can largely be avoided by staying out of the sun, many women experience hyperpigmentation during pregnancy due to hormone activity, even if they avoid the sun. Chloasma or the 'mask of pregnancy' consists of brown patches that appear on the forehead, cheeks and above the lip.

A variety of topical treatments is available that can lighten blemishes, and chemical skin peels, microdermabrasion and laser resurfacing will brighten the skin

Pregnancy causes severe hormonal changes in a woman's body that may also affect her skin.

HORMONES AND SKIN
When a woman is pregnant, the additional hormones can cause many changes in the skin. While a beautiful rosy glow is associated with the first trimester an is a result of an abundant supply of oxygen, various sensitivities are likely to appear due to increased hormone activity. Conditions such as rashes, dryness, acne and allergies to your normal skincare products are common.

It is important to be extra conscientious with sun protection during pregnancy, as hormonal changes make the skin more susceptible to pigmentation damage. Vitamin supplements are also very important for the maintenance of your skin during this time: vitamin E and zinc have been shown to help reduce stretch marks, and vitamin C aids in collagen production. Always consult your doctor before taking any tablets during pregnancy and while breastfeeding.

Oral contraceptives have similar effects, leading to many of the same skin problems. Although different from person to person, many women on oral contraceptives are more sensitive to sunlight and can develop uneven skin tone and hyperpigmentation if they do not protect themselves adequately. Oral contraceptives can also lead to increased oil production or dehydration.

PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL SUNSCREENS

Sunscreen formulations rely on physical or chemical agents to provide protection. Physical sunscreens contain inert mineral particles that reflect or block UV rays (Think of the white zinc dioxide layer that the cricketers use). The molecules cannot break down or be absorbed by the skin and are therefore less likely to irritate the skin. This type of sunscreen is generally better for sensitive skin types.

Physical sunscreens of the past tended to be thick, white and greasy, but modern preparations contain ultrafine titanium dioxide crystals that do not leave that white residue and actually help to absorb oil. Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, contain synthetic chemical substances that absorb UV radiation. Some o the ingredients can be absorbed through the skin, so these sunscreens may cause irritation. PABA (paraaminobenzoic acid) is one of the most common sensitivity triggers in chemical sunscreens. When choosing a sunscreen, look for ingredients like titanium dioxide or Parsol 1789 (also known as avobenzone; the most effective ingredient for absorbing UVA) and do a patch test to check for sensitivity.

Make sure any product you choose offers UVA and UVB protection. It is also essential that your sunscreen contains antioxidants such as vitamin E, flavonoids, and ascorbic acid to neutralize free radical damage and trigger the repair process. Always choose a product that suits your skin type. For example, gel is best for oily skin, and creams and lotions are most suitable for dry skin.





Low levels of melanin make light skin much more susceptible to photo ageing. Yet black skin, which has quite a high-melanin content, is not immune to sunburn.



Sunburn and sunbeds can add 20 years to your face.


FAUX GLOWS
What we are hearing from dermatologists is that the only safe tan is one that comes in a tube. The good news is that this is the golden age for bottled tans; the modern formulas can give a natural looking glow without the orange streaks and bad smells of past formulations. Self tans us DHA (dihydroxyacetone), colourless sugar that reacts with dead skin cells to create a tanned effect. The reaction is not immediate; it usually takes three to four hours for the colour to develop fully. As your skin constantly renews itself, fake tans only last five to seven days. It is very important to remember that fake tans do not provide any sun protection, so you till need to apply a sunscreen.

WHAT ABOUT SUNBEDS?
If you are all concerned about your skin, you should never lie on a sunbed. The ultraviolet light used by indoor training systems is as dangerous as that of the sun and although they usually filter out the burning UVB rays, they let the UVA rays in even deeper. Sunbeds are, in essence, automatic ageing machines and increase your risk of melanoma.

If you burn in the sun, you can partially alleviate the unpleasant sting by applying cool compresses or adding oatmeal to a lukewarm bath. Creams containing menthol can be very soothing too.

Primary damage is done to your skin while you are in the sun. However, there is a secondary burst of free radical damage for another 24 hours after exposure. To counter this damage, you must get enough antioxidants and make repair part of your skincare routine.

SHOULD I APPLY A DAILY SUNSCREEN?
Yes! Eighty percent of all sun exposure is incidental - in other words, walking, driving to work (the side of your face closest to the window will exhibit more signs of premature ageing), or taking a break outdoors. In fact, sitting outside at noon for your lunch hour is worse than being on the beach between 9-11:00 or 14:00-17:00. For this reason, it is generally accepted that everyone should be using some sort of daily sun protection.

This is especially important if you are at risk for skin cancer or are on antibiotics, antimalarials, Retin-A, Roaccutane, antidepressants, or some hormone replacement therapies, as they can all increase photosensitivity. So, even when it is overcast, be sure to apply a sunscreen every morning. If you have sensitive skin, rather use a lower SPF and be careful to avoid the sun.




There is no doubt that sunshine makes us feel good. It is essential, however, to learn how to enjoy it without putting your skin at risk.

WHY VITAMIN A IS SO VITAL?
Vitamin A supports the natural health of the skin. Melanocytes, keratinocytes, fibroblasts and Langerhans cells all depend on vitamin A, and a deficiency will also result in a depletion of vitamin C. Although vitamin A protects the skin from the sun, UVA destroys it. If you send the weekend tanning next to the swimming pool, for example, the levels of vitamin A in your skin will be depleted and it will take about seven days to restore those levels. Ten minutes in the sun will cause the vitamin A level in the skin t o drop to about 10%. To maintain a high enough level of vitamin A in the skin to protect it, it is essential to apply vitamin A topically. and to supply the skin with antioxidants that protect your vitamin stores from attack by free radicals.

AND NOW FOR THE GOOD NEWS....
Although for many people the rate of damage is higher than the skin's inherent ability to repair itself, there is a lot of potential for self-repair. The key is to start taking the proper precautions now, if you have not being doing so already. Always protect yourself from the sun. By simply applying a daily sunscreen, you are giving your skin a chance to 'rest' and conserve some of the energy it would otherwise expend on protection during the day. As these energy reserves grow, your skin has a better chance of carrying out the crucial roles of repairing and rebuilding itself; ensuring long term healthy functioning.










Always remember: how you look after your skin as a child (parents, take note!) will determine your appearance 20 years down the line.

How do I know if I am at risk for skin cancer?
Every person runs some risk of developing skin cancer; a lighter skin tone and unprotected sun exposure increase that risk. It is crucial to protect young skin because a severe burn before the age of 18 almost doubles the risk of skin cancer and premature ageing. After years of sun exposure, basal cell carcinoma are the most common types of skin cancer and often appear on exposed areas of the skin. Melanomas are the most widely known type of skin cancer and the deadliest. Remember the ABCD of warning sings for changes in a mole, which may indicate melanoma:

A is for asymmetry: has its shape changed?
B is for border: have the edges increased or become irregular?
C is for colour: has the mole darkened or is the colour not uniform?
D is for diameter: has it become larger than 6mm (¼in)?
Speak to a dermatologist immediately if you answer yes to any of the above questions, or if you are concerned by any suddenly appearing skin lesion. Early detection can make all the difference between successful removal and long-term illness.

PREMATURE AGING

Despite all warnings to the contrary, come summer, the beaches are packed as we bare our bodies to get a tan. While a small amount of early-morning sun is good for you (15 minutes is sufficient to provide you with natural vitamin D, and occasional exposure is believed to improve psychological wellbeing), too much sun is dangerous. Besides the fact that sun dramatically ages your skin, it is also the cause of several kinds of skin cancer, including solar keratoses (wart-like growths) and malignant melanoma - and just one bout of harsh sunburn may be all it takes. Photo ageing - which can make up to around 85% of the overall appearance of ageing - is a slow process and only becomes visible after a few decades. And then it is too late to do anything about it.

Unfortunately, although people are now waking up to the dangers of overexposure and the horrors of skin cancer, only about half of the world's population takes adequate precautions to protect themselves from the sun. Sun safety should be a vital part of your life and one that you must instill in your children from an early age.

Wrinkles and other sun-related signs of premature ageing begin to form up to 10 years before they actually appear.

Your best ally against premature ageing is the daily use of a good sunscreen. The higher the SPF (Sun Protection Factor), the oilier the cream generally is. So if you are prone to breakouts stick to SPF 15 or lower or try a gel formula.


Photo ageing, a result of sun exposure. is a slow process. It may take several decades before it becomes fully noticeable. In fact, 90% of sun damage occurs by the age of 20, only becoming visible in your early thirties and onwards. The degree of photo ageing is mainly determined by your skin type and total lifetime sun exposure, and the degree of damage to different areas of the body is directly proportional to the amount of sunlight received (your hands and neckline for example, are more likely to have sun damage and age spots than your stomach).

Seriously sun-damaged skin has a thickened outer layer, making it feel day, rough and leathery. There are often darkly pigmented areas or whitish spots where levels of pigment are higher or lower than normal. Pores may be dilated and small blood vessels become more obvious, sometimes forming broken or spider-like veins, and the skin may be mottled red or inflamed. Within the dermis, the elastic fibres increase in quantity and thickness, manifesting as deep, fixed wrinkles and less pliable skin.

THE SCIENCE OF SUNBURN
The sun energy that reaches the Earth can be divided into three kinds of light: infrared and visible light, and ultraviolet radiation (UVR). UVR, in turn, consists of three different wavelengths: ultraviolet A, B and C.

• Ultraviolet C is the shortest wavelength and potentially the most damaging. DNA and proteins absorb UVC due to their molecular structure. Fortunately for us, UVC is mostly absorbed in the atmosphere by ozone layer. However, the current 'thinning' of this layer has increased the amounts that reach our planet, especially in the Southern Hemisphere.
• UVB is the most potent wavelength as it can penetrate into the epidermis where it affects the DNA and can create lipid peroxides, precursors of free radicals. It is believed to generate most of the photo damage to skin. UVB is the wavelength responsible for sunburn, and is at its most dangerous in the middle of a summer day, when transmitted through a blue sky. Less UVB is transmitted in the early mornings and late evenings; when the sun is lowest in the sky.
• UVA is about 1 000 times less damaging to the skin than UVB, but it is far from harmless. UVA tays are longer than UVB rays, and 90% of the sunlight reaching the earth is made up of UVA rays. They are the 'ageing' rays, which penetrate deeper into the skin (the dermis) and are responsible for the damage to your collagen and elastin, and causing freckles, blotchiness and pigmentation problems. While UVB peaks at high noon in summer, UVA is fairly constant throughout the day and year and can penetrate cloud cover, tinted glass and clothing relatively easily. UVA also causes immune suppression, resulting in increased susceptibility to skin infections and even skin cancer.

HOW SUNLIGHT PENETRATES THE SKIN

SUNBURN VS SUNTAN
There is no such thing as a safe tan. A suntan is actually the body's defence mechanism against too strong sunlight and the visible evidence of damage to the skin. Sunlight stimulates the skin to increase melanin production. As the melanin supply is activated, it moves up towards the surface of the skin where it helps prevent burning and reduces the penetration of the sun's rays. The side effect is skin of that golden colour that sun worshippers crave. Although dark-skinned people have more melanin in their skin and thus have a higher level of natural protection, they still need to use a sunscreen to avoid skin damage.

Sunburn, on the other hand, can be equated to 'cooking' your skin. If you do not apply sunscreen, or accidentally fall asleep in the sun, the surface blood vessels dilate (hence the redness), and an inflammatory response is induced to fight the damage,often causing blisters in the process. The redness occurs tow to eight hours after severe sun exposure and blistering can occur after 12 to 24 hours. A frightening fact is that our skin 'remembers' this burn, and the DNA may not repair perfectly. These 'errors' in DNA can lead to skin cancer years later. So when you make your way to the coast for your next summer holiday, remember that although a tan fades quickly, your skin carries a permanent memory of the damage.

Overexposure to the sun at an early age will result in premature wrinkling between the ages of 25 and 40. The dangerous rays are not just from the sun's light - they are also reflected off water an the earth.

PROTECTING YOUR SKIN
The time it takes for unprotected skin to turn red in the sun is known as the MED (minimal erythema dose). Your skin type determines your MED. Very fair skin, for example, will have a MED of about six minutes; olive toned skin can tolerate about 10 to 12 minutes; and black skin usually has a MED of 18 to 20 minutes. SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is a standardized measure that indicates how much additional time above your MED you can spend in the sun without getting burned. For example, if you can usually spend 10 minutes in the sun before burning, an SPF15 sunscreen will multiply that time by fifteen (10 minutes x 15 = 150 minutes of 'sun time').

Note that a person with fair skin can spend far less time in the sun than someone with darker skin, even if they both apply the same level of SPF. Once your time is up, you should ideally get out of the sun. Reapplying sunscreen only means that you will 'cook' more slowly, a bit like cooking your Sunday roast in the oven - once it is done you are simply crisping it! You should, however, always reapply sunscreen after swimming, perspiring and drying yourself off. The key is to use enough sunscreen (one to two ounces) for an even and full coverage. Double application is also important: apply the first layer 20 to 30 minutes before you go to the beach, and apply another layer as your 'coat of armour' when you get into the sun.

SKIN FOR ALL SEASONS

Winter can be torture to your skin, so it is no surprise that many recurrent skin problems are at their worst at this time of year. Dryness can diminish the epidermis' ability to provide protection, leading to seasonal eczema, hypersensitivity and rough skin. With a little care, however, you can keep your skin looking its best come rain or shine.

During dry weather, the key is more moisture, more often. If you use an oil-free moisturizer, consider upgrading to one that contains small amounts of essential oils for a moisture boost, or switch from your summer moisturizer to a richer cream. Depending on the humidity levels, you may also want to apply a weekly hydrating mask to help restore suppleness to the skin. Putting a humidifier in your home and office will also help prevent dehydration, which is especially important if you are constantly exposed to air-conditioners and heaters.

INGREDIENT WATCH
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or fruit acids, are derived from natural ingredients such as milk, olives, apples and grapes. They help speed up the exfoliation process by dissolving the glue that bonds the cells. When choosing an AHA, it is important to consider the form and concentration. Lactic acid (made from fermented milk) and glycolic acid (made from sugar cane), for example, are particularly effective in treating dry skin and dry-skin diseases such as eczema and psoriasis, as well as decreasing wrinkles. Regarding the concentration: the higher it is, the more effective is the product. However, AHAs should be used with caution. They can cause irritation and do increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun. If you use AHAs, you need to use a daily sunscreen with SPF15 or higher.

Antioxidants are part of the body's natural defence system, derived from vitamins A, C and E. They protect the skin by attaching themselves to free radicals and neutralizing them. Since your skin is your first line of defence against the outside world it makes sense to arm it with the most potent antioxidants available. Other good antioxidants include grape seed extract, black and green tea extract and lycopene (extracted from tomatoes, red guava, watermelon and the skin of red grapes). Polyphenols or catechins, which are found in green tea, exhibit powerful antioxidant properties. In fact, they are 20 times stronger than vitamin E.

Did you know?
Vitamin C applied topically to the skin protects it against free radicals for two or three days. And, since it does not wash off, it delivers extra long-lasting benefits







Fruit or vegetable pulp can make a wonderful skin treatment. It contains stimulating enzymes that can make the skin look firmer an fresher.

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) work in much the same way as AHAs. The best known of the BHAs is salicylic acid, which is made from willow bark. BHAs appear to be less irritating than AHAs.

Coenzyme Q10 occurs naturally in every skin cell and helps convert food into energy. Without Co-Q10 - known as the 'fuel of youth' - the body's cells are unable to produce energy. Stress, UV radiation and ageing cause a drop in the natural levels of this coenzyme, while increased levels boost cell activity, regeneration and elasticity.

Enzymes like papain (from papaya) and bromelian (from pineapple) are botanically derived and naturally exfoliate and brighten the skin. Enzyme activators are also being designed to suppress the 'bad' enzymes - collagenase and elastase - that damage collagen and elastin.

Flavonoids belong to a group of organic plant molecules produced by plants to protect themselves from attack by diseases and insects as well as damage from intense UV light. Green tea is rich in flavonoid antioxidants. They are also found in onions, apples and citrus fruits. They mop up free radicals, fight off viruses, calm irritation and help protect against allergies.

Retinoids is a derivative term for vitamin A. Powerful retinoids like retinoic acid are found in prescription-only products like Retin-A and Roaccutane and are used to treat sun damage and acne. Gentler derivatives like retinyl palmitate and retinol can be found in cosmetic creams.







Herb teas are excellent for health and beauty. Green tea, especially, is a superb source of antioxidants.


Vitamins for the skin
Nutrition seems to play an enormous role in minimizing free radical damage. Studies show that after the age of 30, there is a sharp decrease in the number of ingested vitamins that are transported to the skin - and this is when our skin most needs antioxidant protection. However, applying potent, stabilized vitamins to the skin via creams and lotions can significantly help reduce the effects of premature ageing.







Our hectic, modern lifestyle taxes the body and depletes its natural supply of vitamins and minerals. Adding good vitamin and mineral supplements to your diet can boost your immune system and improve the way you look and feel.


THE BENEFITS OF TOPICALLY APPLIED VITAMINS
Vitamin A

• Improves skin elasticity
• Increases moisture content, making skin appear more supple
• Helps to reverse the signs of photo ageing
• Scavenges free radicals

Vitamin C

• Plays a vital role in the production of pro collagen, the building blocks of collagen fibres
• Controls production of hyperpigmentation
• Scavenges free radicals
• Strengthens capillary walls; helps heal the skin
• Boosts skin's immune system

Vitamin E

• Protects skin cells and membranes
• Controls production of collagen
• Appears to promote skin healing
• Relieves skin dryness
• Slows collagen degradation
• Anti-inflammatory

Pro-Vitamin B5

• Encourages cell regeneration
• Stimulates the healing process
• Prevents scarring
• Conditions the skin

Vitamin F

• Restores the skin's natural barrier function
• Maintains optimum moisture levels

Topically applied vitamins are very fragile. When exposed to oxygen, light or pollution, they can decompose and lose many of their beneficial qualities. Look for sealed packages that are specifically designed to protect the potency of products, as opposed to vitamin-rich skin care products that are packaged in open containers such as jars or dropper bottles.

Eating a diet rich in antioxidant vitamins and using an antioxidant cream on a daily basis is a wise insurance policy for your skin. Look out for products that contain vitamin A (to act on wrinkles), vitamin C (for radiance and tone) and vitamin E (to improve texture).

BASIC SKINCARE

Cleansing your skin not only improves the way you look, properly cleansed skin will be more receptive to active ingredients in your treatment products, so they will work better.

CLEANSE
Cleansing is one of the single most important things you can do for your skin. Everyone's skin gets dirty from dust, sweat, make-up, sebum and impurities in the air. If you do not cleanse, your pores will become clogged and your skin will start to look dull. Choosing a cleanser has a lot to do with personal preference, but always take your skin type into account. Cream cleansers are rich and gentle and leave a light, moisturizing film on the skin, which is ideal for dry, sensitive and mature skins. The drier your skin, the richer the cleanser you will need. A lotion or gel cleanser is ideal for normal skin as it rinses off easily, while foaming cleansers are best used on greasy skin as they dissolve any excess oil on the skin.

Avoid scrubbing acne-prone skin as it may irritate the lesions. Soap is a no-no on your face. Your skin is by nature slightly acidic (with a pH of about 5.5) and most soap leaves an alkaline residue that is difficult to wash off and may leave skin feeling dry and tight. If you just cannot wean yourself off that lathering texture, some cosmetics houses make soap-free 'facial bars' that foam, but are gentler than regular soap. Generally, if you have very dry skin, it is advisable to avoid soap bars altogether.

How often should I cleanse?
Cleansing twice a day is sufficient. If you are using mild and well-formulated products you won't damage the skin. Some experts believe you should have at least two cleansers - a milder formula for the morning when there is little or no oil build-up, and a deeper cleansing product for the end of the day.

TONE
The jury is still out on toners. Many dermatologists believe that they do not provide any special benefit other than to remove the final traces of make-up and cleanser and so make the skin feel clean and fresh. They cannot actually 'close' pores as some manufacturers claim they do - pores are the openings for the sebaceous glands and cannot be closed from the outside. However, modern formulations are becoming more and more sophisticated, with some offering soothing and anti-ageing benefits.

It is true that certain exfoliating or clarifying lotions can make your skin look more radiant by dissolving dead surface cells. Many brands also claim that toners help to restore the pH balance of the skin after cleansing. Astringents are strong toners with a high alcohol content that may irritate some sensitive and dry skins. Many toners that are designed for use on oily skins contain alcohol precisely because of its drying effect. However, they can also aggravate acne-prone skin as they may cause an increase in the skin's oil production as well as increased sensitivity.

MOISTURIZE
In the past, moisturizes were designed simply to serve as barriers against the environment. Neither did they penetrate the skin, nor allow it to 'breathe', thus leading to congested, nutrient-starved skin.

Modern moisturizers are designed to help the skin function properly and to improve water retention in the epidermis by 'stealing' it - effectively maintaining a delicate balance between adding water to the surface and preventing evaporation. A vast choice of products is available and it is hard to decide which moisturizer is right for you. As a guideline, we should all be wearing a moisturizer that offers antioxidant benefits (to fight free radicals and prevent premature ageing).

The majority of modern formulation also contain a myriad other ingredients to firm, smooth, mattify or boost radiance, for example. Ask yourself what concerns you most about your skin - is it your breakouts, pigmentation, fine lines, dryness, lack of radiance or wrinkles? - and choose accordingly. As a general rule, drier skins needs a rich, hydrating moisturizer, while combination and oily skins do better with a lightweight lotion. If your moisturizer does not contain a sunscreen, layer one over it.

Serum and boosters
These lightweight formulations have a high concentration of active ingredients and are ideal for special care. Applied under your moisturizer, they usually have anti-ageing or hydrating benefits. If your skin suffers from excessive dryness during winter, for example, a hydrating serum can be used just for those few months until the weather changes and your skin is back to normal.

Never apply eye cream directly to the eyelid or underneath the eye. Using your ring finger, dot it on the orbital bone that circles the eye. The product will gradually work its way in through the repeated action of blinking.

Eye cream
Because the skin around the eyes is the first to show signs of ageing, there is definitely a case for using a special cream for this area. The skin around the eyes ages more quickly because it is thinner than that on the rest of the face, and so is less able to retain moisture. Also, the area is generally more sensitive, with fewer and smaller oil glands and, because the eyes are so expressive, the skin around them is made to move excessively. If you use your regular moisturizer around the eye area you could end up with puffy, irritated eyes, while rich lotions can block the glands.

The fragrances, emulsion and emollients that are used in various moisturizers and night creams may also cause sensitivity in this delicate area. Most eye products have multiple benefits, targeting the common problems associated with the skin around the eyes like fine lines, dark circles and puffiness.

The neck and décolletage are often exposed, so protect and treat them with the same care as you do your face by simply extending your skincare routine down to your chest.

Neck cream
Because the skin on the neck has a small number of fat cells and low supplies of sebum, it is prone to dryness and sagging and, like your hands, reveals your age. A specially enriched neck cream, therefore, has its benefits, but you can also just extend your regular routine to the
décolletage.

Night cream
According to our internal clocks, different body cells are more active at certain times of the day. Skin cells do their repair most effectively at night. In fact, research shows that skin cell regeneration almost doubles at night, peaking between 23:00 and 4:00. Production of collagen (the skin's natural support structure) is boosted, harmful free radicals are destroyed and cell damage is rectified. The latest night creams are designed to maximize the nighttime repair process and are generally more nourishing than a day cream.

Do I really need a serum, night cream, eye gel, and neck cream?
In addition to moisturizers, there is a whole host of potions out there that you have probably been told are essential to a good skincare routine. Many dermatologists scoff at them; many skincare experts swear by their added benefits. While there is only so much your skin can absorb, how many extras you want to add to your basic routine is up to you. If in doubt, consult a professional.

Whether you want to smooth, purify, hydrate, brighten or soothe your skin, there is a face mask for you. Masks should be used regularly for the best results, but do not overuse them.

Masks
Applied to cleansed skin, a good mask can be an instant beauty fix. Masks are generally fairly concentrated and infuse skin with beneficial ingredients. There are various types of masks to choose from. As a guide, clay, mud or peel-off masks are best for deep cleansing and perfect for oily skin, while dry skin will benefit from a rich, hydrating treatment. Masks that claim to replenish, perfect or boost radiance are ideal to pep up a dull complexion. Masks and serums are also the perfect way to treat temporary skin conditions such as dehydration or some form of sensitivity, caused by environmental factors. They can be applied once or twice a week depending on the severity of your problem.

Exfoliating too often or too harshly can compromise your skin's protective waterproof layer. Be very careful of abrasive products; ideally thorough exfoliation should be done by a skincare therapist.

Exfoliate to rejuvenate
Our largest organ of elimination, the skin sheds around five billion dead cells daily. One of the reasons young is so clear and radiant is because in its prime, young, healthy skin replace itself naturally every 14 days. As age sets in this process slows until, at about age 40, the renewal cycle is increased to 30 days. If these dead skin cells sit on the surface of the skin, they clog the pores and make the complexion look dull. Removing them reveals clearer, brighter sin and restores suppleness and vigour by stimulating cell renewal.

Myth: Use a deep-cleansing grainy scrub to open clogged pores and remove dead skin over a breakout.
Fact: Use a gentle, nonabrasive exfoliant to smooth the skin's surface and prevent further breakouts, unless you are on Roaccutane or Retin-A; these products already provide a peeling action.

There are various ways to exfoliate:

• Mechanical exfoliation involves products like synthetic buffing beads, scrubs containing apricot kernels, a muslin face cloth or facial brush. If you like to use a scrub, look for a gentle one with fine granules that dissolve in water. Do not overdo it - once a week is enough.
• Chemical exfoliants have ingredients like alpha and beta hydoxy acids, retinoic acid or enzymes (such as papain, found in papaya). These literally 'unglue' dead surface cells and do not require vigorous rubbing and rinsing. Alpha hydroxy acids (fruit acids) are a group of natural chemicals found in fruit, wine, sugar cane and sour milk that exfoliate the skin's surface layer and accelerate new cell production. If you use products that contain these ingredients on a daily basis, avoid combining them with abrasive scrubs. Always be gentle as over-exfoliation can cause sensitivity. By removing too many cells you could compromise the skin's natural protective barrier and reveal cells that have not been properly primed for the harsh environment.

Organic versus natural
There is a definite shift towards harnessing the healing poser of nature, and the production and consumption of organic and 'natural' skincare products is increasing. The question is : how natural is 'natural' and what exactly is the difference between natural and organic? If a product is truly organic it will be certified by an organic certification agency. The trouble is that it is hard to produce 100% organic beauty products because preservatives are vital constituents, and natural preservatives are hard to find.

Natural products are made from plants and minerals that occur in nature and have not been produced in a laboratory. Organic products are also made from natural ingredients; they are grown without the use of chemicals or pesticides. Seaweed, for example, can be classified as a natural product, but is not organic because it is not grown in controlled conditions.

Truly organic products do not contain any genetically modified ingredients nor petrochemicals (synthetic ingredients derived from natural petroleum or oil), nor do they undergo any animal testing ( unless required by law) and are only subjected to minimal processing. Some cosmetic companies add natural ingredients in the form of fruit acids, vitamins, borage and hemp to skincare products. Some products use ingredients that mimic the skin's natural functions, like hyaluronic acid, a moisturizer that occurs naturally in the skin.

So what is best? Some experts believe that 60% of everything you put on your skin is absorbed by it. Your skin is a highly effective delivery system, so it makes sense that organic beauty products - made without the use of artificial fertilizers, pesticides, chemicals or drugs - ensure the highest level of nourishment to the skin. But remember that your can still have an allergic reaction to a 'natural' product. Natural ingredients can trigger skin reactions in the same way that synthetic ingredients can. If you have sensitive skin, look for products that have full ingredient listings to enable you to identify potential aggressors.

KNOW YOUR SKIN TYPE

Achieving perfect skin many seem impossible to most of us, but we are all capable of having and maintaining good skin. This simply requires getting to know our skin and looking after it - and it's never too early too start. Looking after your skin may mean different things to different people. To some it means washing their face with soap and water and slapping on sun block at the beach; to others it is a regular cleanse and moisturize routine. To many it means spending load of cash on all the latest wrinkle-reducing, complexion-clearing, blemish-busting lotions and potions. But good skincare does not have to be expensive, time consuming or daunting. Before bothering to spend a fortune on products that may not suit you, you need to know your skin type.

If you are unsure, go to a professional dermatologist, skincare therapist or beauty advisor at a cosmetics counter for a skin analysis. Your skin is a living organ and can change from season to season - or week to week - depending on your general health, lifestyle, diet and hormonal changes, as well as external factors such as the weather. It is therefore important to have your skin profiled at least twice a year.

You need to know your skin type and identify your key concerns before you put anything on your face.

Skin Types
Skin types are individual as personalities, but there are some generally accepted principles. Scientific definitions of skin types are determined by how the skin responds to sun exposure, its ability to tan and hair colour. A very fair person that always burns in the sun would be categorized as a skin type one, while a black-skinned person who rarely burns an d tans darkly would be a skin type six. When buying skincare products however, it is often more practical to choose according to how dry or oily your skin feels.

NORMAL SKIN
Normal skin has nothing obviously wrong with it. It is in a balanced state of suppleness, elasticity, hydration and colour, and feels soft and smooth to the touch. It rarely breaks out and feels comfortable after cleansing (neither tight or dry). Normal skin can change however, as a poor skincare routine, excessive sun, wind or cold exposure, a poor diet and hormones can take their toll.

DRY SKIN
Dry skin is often characterized by feelings of tightness due to a lack of emollients or oil. It has a fine texture, no visible pores, may be rough and scaly in places and shows lines and wrinkles easily. It rarely suffers breakouts. The problem lies in poor epidermal function and damage to the water/lipid barrier. This is a common complaint with mature skin as hydration ability decreases as we age (due to a slowing down of oil production by the sebaceous glands). As the levels of natural lipids and oil drop, the skin's ability to retain water is also reduced, leaving the skin dry and often dehydrated. In young people, a dry skin is usually a result of low sebum production, or it may be that the skin has temporarily dried out as a result of sunburn, extremes of climate, detergents or air conditioning. Dehydrated skin should not be confused with dry skin, although it can feel tight and flaky. Deeply nourishing or hydrating masks and moisturizers can be used to rebalance the skin and help to prevent against further moisture loss.








This illustration depicts the location of the T-zone - an oily area that is prone to breakouts, and usually develops a shine during the day.

OILY SKIN
Greasy or oily skin is particularly common in teenagers and young adults, but much less so after the age of 35. A result of excess sebum production, it's characterized by a shiny appearance, on the 'T-zone' - the forehead, nose and chin. The epidermis tends to thicken and the pores dilate, giving the skin a slightly rough and irregular texture. A person with this skin type is more likely to suffer from spots and acne.

COMBINATION SKIN
There are two forms of combination skin: oily/normal and dry/normal. In oily/normal combination skin, the centre panel (T-zone) is oily while the rest of the face is comfortable. In the dry/normal combination skin, the centre panel may be normal with dry patches on the cheeks. You need to treat both zones in combination skin-moisturizing the dry patches and controlling the sebum on the oily parts.

SENSITIVE VERSUS SENSITIZED?
In addition to these skin types, many people believe they have sensitive skin. However, true sensitivity is not as common as we think. Truly sensitive skin is easily irritated and cannot tolerate cosmetic products. Many of us suffer bouts of skin sensitivity, set off by anything from climate changes to stress. This is a temporary state, referred to as sensitized skin, and can usually be relieved through soothing treatment. The best way to handle sensitive skin is by treating it as though it is very dry: do not scrub or exfoliate, have facials nor use masks unless you are certain that the products suit you. Steer clear of soap, which can alter the skin's natural pH balance, alpha hydroxy creams, the sun and perfumes. Look for hypoallergenic and allergy tested products or consult a dermatologist.

A sensitive skin is slightly different to an allergic skin. While sensitivity is difficult to cure, with the right products it can be significantly improved. Allergic skin, on the other hand, tends to react more aggressively and the reaction may last for up to 10 days. These skin types may need a dermatological skincare routine. If your skin is behaving badly, it may be a sign that your body is taking strain - in times of stress, your skin gets the short end of the stick. The bottom line: take a look at your lifestyle and see how you can reduce stress in order to gain control of your skin.