SKIN FOR ALL SEASONS

Winter can be torture to your skin, so it is no surprise that many recurrent skin problems are at their worst at this time of year. Dryness can diminish the epidermis' ability to provide protection, leading to seasonal eczema, hypersensitivity and rough skin. With a little care, however, you can keep your skin looking its best come rain or shine.

During dry weather, the key is more moisture, more often. If you use an oil-free moisturizer, consider upgrading to one that contains small amounts of essential oils for a moisture boost, or switch from your summer moisturizer to a richer cream. Depending on the humidity levels, you may also want to apply a weekly hydrating mask to help restore suppleness to the skin. Putting a humidifier in your home and office will also help prevent dehydration, which is especially important if you are constantly exposed to air-conditioners and heaters.

INGREDIENT WATCH
Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) or fruit acids, are derived from natural ingredients such as milk, olives, apples and grapes. They help speed up the exfoliation process by dissolving the glue that bonds the cells. When choosing an AHA, it is important to consider the form and concentration. Lactic acid (made from fermented milk) and glycolic acid (made from sugar cane), for example, are particularly effective in treating dry skin and dry-skin diseases such as eczema and psoriasis, as well as decreasing wrinkles. Regarding the concentration: the higher it is, the more effective is the product. However, AHAs should be used with caution. They can cause irritation and do increase the skin's sensitivity to the sun. If you use AHAs, you need to use a daily sunscreen with SPF15 or higher.

Antioxidants are part of the body's natural defence system, derived from vitamins A, C and E. They protect the skin by attaching themselves to free radicals and neutralizing them. Since your skin is your first line of defence against the outside world it makes sense to arm it with the most potent antioxidants available. Other good antioxidants include grape seed extract, black and green tea extract and lycopene (extracted from tomatoes, red guava, watermelon and the skin of red grapes). Polyphenols or catechins, which are found in green tea, exhibit powerful antioxidant properties. In fact, they are 20 times stronger than vitamin E.

Did you know?
Vitamin C applied topically to the skin protects it against free radicals for two or three days. And, since it does not wash off, it delivers extra long-lasting benefits







Fruit or vegetable pulp can make a wonderful skin treatment. It contains stimulating enzymes that can make the skin look firmer an fresher.

Beta hydroxy acids (BHAs) work in much the same way as AHAs. The best known of the BHAs is salicylic acid, which is made from willow bark. BHAs appear to be less irritating than AHAs.

Coenzyme Q10 occurs naturally in every skin cell and helps convert food into energy. Without Co-Q10 - known as the 'fuel of youth' - the body's cells are unable to produce energy. Stress, UV radiation and ageing cause a drop in the natural levels of this coenzyme, while increased levels boost cell activity, regeneration and elasticity.

Enzymes like papain (from papaya) and bromelian (from pineapple) are botanically derived and naturally exfoliate and brighten the skin. Enzyme activators are also being designed to suppress the 'bad' enzymes - collagenase and elastase - that damage collagen and elastin.

Flavonoids belong to a group of organic plant molecules produced by plants to protect themselves from attack by diseases and insects as well as damage from intense UV light. Green tea is rich in flavonoid antioxidants. They are also found in onions, apples and citrus fruits. They mop up free radicals, fight off viruses, calm irritation and help protect against allergies.

Retinoids is a derivative term for vitamin A. Powerful retinoids like retinoic acid are found in prescription-only products like Retin-A and Roaccutane and are used to treat sun damage and acne. Gentler derivatives like retinyl palmitate and retinol can be found in cosmetic creams.







Herb teas are excellent for health and beauty. Green tea, especially, is a superb source of antioxidants.


Vitamins for the skin
Nutrition seems to play an enormous role in minimizing free radical damage. Studies show that after the age of 30, there is a sharp decrease in the number of ingested vitamins that are transported to the skin - and this is when our skin most needs antioxidant protection. However, applying potent, stabilized vitamins to the skin via creams and lotions can significantly help reduce the effects of premature ageing.







Our hectic, modern lifestyle taxes the body and depletes its natural supply of vitamins and minerals. Adding good vitamin and mineral supplements to your diet can boost your immune system and improve the way you look and feel.


THE BENEFITS OF TOPICALLY APPLIED VITAMINS
Vitamin A

• Improves skin elasticity
• Increases moisture content, making skin appear more supple
• Helps to reverse the signs of photo ageing
• Scavenges free radicals

Vitamin C

• Plays a vital role in the production of pro collagen, the building blocks of collagen fibres
• Controls production of hyperpigmentation
• Scavenges free radicals
• Strengthens capillary walls; helps heal the skin
• Boosts skin's immune system

Vitamin E

• Protects skin cells and membranes
• Controls production of collagen
• Appears to promote skin healing
• Relieves skin dryness
• Slows collagen degradation
• Anti-inflammatory

Pro-Vitamin B5

• Encourages cell regeneration
• Stimulates the healing process
• Prevents scarring
• Conditions the skin

Vitamin F

• Restores the skin's natural barrier function
• Maintains optimum moisture levels

Topically applied vitamins are very fragile. When exposed to oxygen, light or pollution, they can decompose and lose many of their beneficial qualities. Look for sealed packages that are specifically designed to protect the potency of products, as opposed to vitamin-rich skin care products that are packaged in open containers such as jars or dropper bottles.

Eating a diet rich in antioxidant vitamins and using an antioxidant cream on a daily basis is a wise insurance policy for your skin. Look out for products that contain vitamin A (to act on wrinkles), vitamin C (for radiance and tone) and vitamin E (to improve texture).

BASIC SKINCARE

Cleansing your skin not only improves the way you look, properly cleansed skin will be more receptive to active ingredients in your treatment products, so they will work better.

CLEANSE
Cleansing is one of the single most important things you can do for your skin. Everyone's skin gets dirty from dust, sweat, make-up, sebum and impurities in the air. If you do not cleanse, your pores will become clogged and your skin will start to look dull. Choosing a cleanser has a lot to do with personal preference, but always take your skin type into account. Cream cleansers are rich and gentle and leave a light, moisturizing film on the skin, which is ideal for dry, sensitive and mature skins. The drier your skin, the richer the cleanser you will need. A lotion or gel cleanser is ideal for normal skin as it rinses off easily, while foaming cleansers are best used on greasy skin as they dissolve any excess oil on the skin.

Avoid scrubbing acne-prone skin as it may irritate the lesions. Soap is a no-no on your face. Your skin is by nature slightly acidic (with a pH of about 5.5) and most soap leaves an alkaline residue that is difficult to wash off and may leave skin feeling dry and tight. If you just cannot wean yourself off that lathering texture, some cosmetics houses make soap-free 'facial bars' that foam, but are gentler than regular soap. Generally, if you have very dry skin, it is advisable to avoid soap bars altogether.

How often should I cleanse?
Cleansing twice a day is sufficient. If you are using mild and well-formulated products you won't damage the skin. Some experts believe you should have at least two cleansers - a milder formula for the morning when there is little or no oil build-up, and a deeper cleansing product for the end of the day.

TONE
The jury is still out on toners. Many dermatologists believe that they do not provide any special benefit other than to remove the final traces of make-up and cleanser and so make the skin feel clean and fresh. They cannot actually 'close' pores as some manufacturers claim they do - pores are the openings for the sebaceous glands and cannot be closed from the outside. However, modern formulations are becoming more and more sophisticated, with some offering soothing and anti-ageing benefits.

It is true that certain exfoliating or clarifying lotions can make your skin look more radiant by dissolving dead surface cells. Many brands also claim that toners help to restore the pH balance of the skin after cleansing. Astringents are strong toners with a high alcohol content that may irritate some sensitive and dry skins. Many toners that are designed for use on oily skins contain alcohol precisely because of its drying effect. However, they can also aggravate acne-prone skin as they may cause an increase in the skin's oil production as well as increased sensitivity.

MOISTURIZE
In the past, moisturizes were designed simply to serve as barriers against the environment. Neither did they penetrate the skin, nor allow it to 'breathe', thus leading to congested, nutrient-starved skin.

Modern moisturizers are designed to help the skin function properly and to improve water retention in the epidermis by 'stealing' it - effectively maintaining a delicate balance between adding water to the surface and preventing evaporation. A vast choice of products is available and it is hard to decide which moisturizer is right for you. As a guideline, we should all be wearing a moisturizer that offers antioxidant benefits (to fight free radicals and prevent premature ageing).

The majority of modern formulation also contain a myriad other ingredients to firm, smooth, mattify or boost radiance, for example. Ask yourself what concerns you most about your skin - is it your breakouts, pigmentation, fine lines, dryness, lack of radiance or wrinkles? - and choose accordingly. As a general rule, drier skins needs a rich, hydrating moisturizer, while combination and oily skins do better with a lightweight lotion. If your moisturizer does not contain a sunscreen, layer one over it.

Serum and boosters
These lightweight formulations have a high concentration of active ingredients and are ideal for special care. Applied under your moisturizer, they usually have anti-ageing or hydrating benefits. If your skin suffers from excessive dryness during winter, for example, a hydrating serum can be used just for those few months until the weather changes and your skin is back to normal.

Never apply eye cream directly to the eyelid or underneath the eye. Using your ring finger, dot it on the orbital bone that circles the eye. The product will gradually work its way in through the repeated action of blinking.

Eye cream
Because the skin around the eyes is the first to show signs of ageing, there is definitely a case for using a special cream for this area. The skin around the eyes ages more quickly because it is thinner than that on the rest of the face, and so is less able to retain moisture. Also, the area is generally more sensitive, with fewer and smaller oil glands and, because the eyes are so expressive, the skin around them is made to move excessively. If you use your regular moisturizer around the eye area you could end up with puffy, irritated eyes, while rich lotions can block the glands.

The fragrances, emulsion and emollients that are used in various moisturizers and night creams may also cause sensitivity in this delicate area. Most eye products have multiple benefits, targeting the common problems associated with the skin around the eyes like fine lines, dark circles and puffiness.

The neck and décolletage are often exposed, so protect and treat them with the same care as you do your face by simply extending your skincare routine down to your chest.

Neck cream
Because the skin on the neck has a small number of fat cells and low supplies of sebum, it is prone to dryness and sagging and, like your hands, reveals your age. A specially enriched neck cream, therefore, has its benefits, but you can also just extend your regular routine to the
décolletage.

Night cream
According to our internal clocks, different body cells are more active at certain times of the day. Skin cells do their repair most effectively at night. In fact, research shows that skin cell regeneration almost doubles at night, peaking between 23:00 and 4:00. Production of collagen (the skin's natural support structure) is boosted, harmful free radicals are destroyed and cell damage is rectified. The latest night creams are designed to maximize the nighttime repair process and are generally more nourishing than a day cream.

Do I really need a serum, night cream, eye gel, and neck cream?
In addition to moisturizers, there is a whole host of potions out there that you have probably been told are essential to a good skincare routine. Many dermatologists scoff at them; many skincare experts swear by their added benefits. While there is only so much your skin can absorb, how many extras you want to add to your basic routine is up to you. If in doubt, consult a professional.

Whether you want to smooth, purify, hydrate, brighten or soothe your skin, there is a face mask for you. Masks should be used regularly for the best results, but do not overuse them.

Masks
Applied to cleansed skin, a good mask can be an instant beauty fix. Masks are generally fairly concentrated and infuse skin with beneficial ingredients. There are various types of masks to choose from. As a guide, clay, mud or peel-off masks are best for deep cleansing and perfect for oily skin, while dry skin will benefit from a rich, hydrating treatment. Masks that claim to replenish, perfect or boost radiance are ideal to pep up a dull complexion. Masks and serums are also the perfect way to treat temporary skin conditions such as dehydration or some form of sensitivity, caused by environmental factors. They can be applied once or twice a week depending on the severity of your problem.

Exfoliating too often or too harshly can compromise your skin's protective waterproof layer. Be very careful of abrasive products; ideally thorough exfoliation should be done by a skincare therapist.

Exfoliate to rejuvenate
Our largest organ of elimination, the skin sheds around five billion dead cells daily. One of the reasons young is so clear and radiant is because in its prime, young, healthy skin replace itself naturally every 14 days. As age sets in this process slows until, at about age 40, the renewal cycle is increased to 30 days. If these dead skin cells sit on the surface of the skin, they clog the pores and make the complexion look dull. Removing them reveals clearer, brighter sin and restores suppleness and vigour by stimulating cell renewal.

Myth: Use a deep-cleansing grainy scrub to open clogged pores and remove dead skin over a breakout.
Fact: Use a gentle, nonabrasive exfoliant to smooth the skin's surface and prevent further breakouts, unless you are on Roaccutane or Retin-A; these products already provide a peeling action.

There are various ways to exfoliate:

• Mechanical exfoliation involves products like synthetic buffing beads, scrubs containing apricot kernels, a muslin face cloth or facial brush. If you like to use a scrub, look for a gentle one with fine granules that dissolve in water. Do not overdo it - once a week is enough.
• Chemical exfoliants have ingredients like alpha and beta hydoxy acids, retinoic acid or enzymes (such as papain, found in papaya). These literally 'unglue' dead surface cells and do not require vigorous rubbing and rinsing. Alpha hydroxy acids (fruit acids) are a group of natural chemicals found in fruit, wine, sugar cane and sour milk that exfoliate the skin's surface layer and accelerate new cell production. If you use products that contain these ingredients on a daily basis, avoid combining them with abrasive scrubs. Always be gentle as over-exfoliation can cause sensitivity. By removing too many cells you could compromise the skin's natural protective barrier and reveal cells that have not been properly primed for the harsh environment.

Organic versus natural
There is a definite shift towards harnessing the healing poser of nature, and the production and consumption of organic and 'natural' skincare products is increasing. The question is : how natural is 'natural' and what exactly is the difference between natural and organic? If a product is truly organic it will be certified by an organic certification agency. The trouble is that it is hard to produce 100% organic beauty products because preservatives are vital constituents, and natural preservatives are hard to find.

Natural products are made from plants and minerals that occur in nature and have not been produced in a laboratory. Organic products are also made from natural ingredients; they are grown without the use of chemicals or pesticides. Seaweed, for example, can be classified as a natural product, but is not organic because it is not grown in controlled conditions.

Truly organic products do not contain any genetically modified ingredients nor petrochemicals (synthetic ingredients derived from natural petroleum or oil), nor do they undergo any animal testing ( unless required by law) and are only subjected to minimal processing. Some cosmetic companies add natural ingredients in the form of fruit acids, vitamins, borage and hemp to skincare products. Some products use ingredients that mimic the skin's natural functions, like hyaluronic acid, a moisturizer that occurs naturally in the skin.

So what is best? Some experts believe that 60% of everything you put on your skin is absorbed by it. Your skin is a highly effective delivery system, so it makes sense that organic beauty products - made without the use of artificial fertilizers, pesticides, chemicals or drugs - ensure the highest level of nourishment to the skin. But remember that your can still have an allergic reaction to a 'natural' product. Natural ingredients can trigger skin reactions in the same way that synthetic ingredients can. If you have sensitive skin, look for products that have full ingredient listings to enable you to identify potential aggressors.

KNOW YOUR SKIN TYPE

Achieving perfect skin many seem impossible to most of us, but we are all capable of having and maintaining good skin. This simply requires getting to know our skin and looking after it - and it's never too early too start. Looking after your skin may mean different things to different people. To some it means washing their face with soap and water and slapping on sun block at the beach; to others it is a regular cleanse and moisturize routine. To many it means spending load of cash on all the latest wrinkle-reducing, complexion-clearing, blemish-busting lotions and potions. But good skincare does not have to be expensive, time consuming or daunting. Before bothering to spend a fortune on products that may not suit you, you need to know your skin type.

If you are unsure, go to a professional dermatologist, skincare therapist or beauty advisor at a cosmetics counter for a skin analysis. Your skin is a living organ and can change from season to season - or week to week - depending on your general health, lifestyle, diet and hormonal changes, as well as external factors such as the weather. It is therefore important to have your skin profiled at least twice a year.

You need to know your skin type and identify your key concerns before you put anything on your face.

Skin Types
Skin types are individual as personalities, but there are some generally accepted principles. Scientific definitions of skin types are determined by how the skin responds to sun exposure, its ability to tan and hair colour. A very fair person that always burns in the sun would be categorized as a skin type one, while a black-skinned person who rarely burns an d tans darkly would be a skin type six. When buying skincare products however, it is often more practical to choose according to how dry or oily your skin feels.

NORMAL SKIN
Normal skin has nothing obviously wrong with it. It is in a balanced state of suppleness, elasticity, hydration and colour, and feels soft and smooth to the touch. It rarely breaks out and feels comfortable after cleansing (neither tight or dry). Normal skin can change however, as a poor skincare routine, excessive sun, wind or cold exposure, a poor diet and hormones can take their toll.

DRY SKIN
Dry skin is often characterized by feelings of tightness due to a lack of emollients or oil. It has a fine texture, no visible pores, may be rough and scaly in places and shows lines and wrinkles easily. It rarely suffers breakouts. The problem lies in poor epidermal function and damage to the water/lipid barrier. This is a common complaint with mature skin as hydration ability decreases as we age (due to a slowing down of oil production by the sebaceous glands). As the levels of natural lipids and oil drop, the skin's ability to retain water is also reduced, leaving the skin dry and often dehydrated. In young people, a dry skin is usually a result of low sebum production, or it may be that the skin has temporarily dried out as a result of sunburn, extremes of climate, detergents or air conditioning. Dehydrated skin should not be confused with dry skin, although it can feel tight and flaky. Deeply nourishing or hydrating masks and moisturizers can be used to rebalance the skin and help to prevent against further moisture loss.








This illustration depicts the location of the T-zone - an oily area that is prone to breakouts, and usually develops a shine during the day.

OILY SKIN
Greasy or oily skin is particularly common in teenagers and young adults, but much less so after the age of 35. A result of excess sebum production, it's characterized by a shiny appearance, on the 'T-zone' - the forehead, nose and chin. The epidermis tends to thicken and the pores dilate, giving the skin a slightly rough and irregular texture. A person with this skin type is more likely to suffer from spots and acne.

COMBINATION SKIN
There are two forms of combination skin: oily/normal and dry/normal. In oily/normal combination skin, the centre panel (T-zone) is oily while the rest of the face is comfortable. In the dry/normal combination skin, the centre panel may be normal with dry patches on the cheeks. You need to treat both zones in combination skin-moisturizing the dry patches and controlling the sebum on the oily parts.

SENSITIVE VERSUS SENSITIZED?
In addition to these skin types, many people believe they have sensitive skin. However, true sensitivity is not as common as we think. Truly sensitive skin is easily irritated and cannot tolerate cosmetic products. Many of us suffer bouts of skin sensitivity, set off by anything from climate changes to stress. This is a temporary state, referred to as sensitized skin, and can usually be relieved through soothing treatment. The best way to handle sensitive skin is by treating it as though it is very dry: do not scrub or exfoliate, have facials nor use masks unless you are certain that the products suit you. Steer clear of soap, which can alter the skin's natural pH balance, alpha hydroxy creams, the sun and perfumes. Look for hypoallergenic and allergy tested products or consult a dermatologist.

A sensitive skin is slightly different to an allergic skin. While sensitivity is difficult to cure, with the right products it can be significantly improved. Allergic skin, on the other hand, tends to react more aggressively and the reaction may last for up to 10 days. These skin types may need a dermatological skincare routine. If your skin is behaving badly, it may be a sign that your body is taking strain - in times of stress, your skin gets the short end of the stick. The bottom line: take a look at your lifestyle and see how you can reduce stress in order to gain control of your skin.

WHAT ARE FREE RADICALS

Free radicals are reactive molecules created naturally by the body, particularly when it is exposed to sunlight or under stress. Excessive exercise can also trigger abnormal free radical production due to the increased intake of oxygen. The smoke, chemicals and toxins that we encounter in everyday city life cause almost continual free radical production (the skin can generate free radicals in a millionth of a second if exposed to cigarette smoke).

Free radicals are unstable molecules that act as scavengers in the skin, damaging connective tissue, cell membranes and DNA, our basic genetic building blocks. On the skin, this chemical chaos results in a heightened skin cancer risk and premature ageing. Young, healthy skin has sufficient enzymes and vitamins to neutralize these 'terrorists', but as we age, our natural defense mechanisms become depleted and the skin becomes less effective at defending itself from attack. Antioxidants are currently our best method of limiting free radical damage. They work by stopping the formation of free radicals and 'mopping them up' as the form.

How do free radicals form?

• Oxygen molecules have four pairs of electrons. Sun, smoking, stress, etc. can cause the loss of electrons. At this stage the molecule, desperate to 'regain' its lost electron, is defined as a free radical. So begins the raid on other molecules.
• Scavenging free radicals take an electron from other molecules, thus creating new free radicals that go on their own rampage.
• This chain reaction eventually causes the cell membrane to disintegrate, leaving the cell vulnerable to premature ageing and disease.
• Antioxidants remove free radicals as they form by replacing the lost electrons and so creating normal oxygen molecules.
  

SKIN ENEMIES

CITY LIFE
Fresh air combined with certain health keys is what we should all aspire to. Unfortunately, modern lifestyles mean it is impossible to escape the city's by-products. There is no doubt that living in a city contributes to premature ageing of the skin. Chemicals such as carbon monoxide, oxides of nitrogen, lead and chlorofluorocarbons (all part of what we know as pollution) set off free radicals, which lead to collagen and elastin breakdown.

Furthermore, car fumes (especially leaded petrol) and dust can filter in through air vents; chemicals are released into the air by machines; modern ventilation systems restrict the supply of fresh air in office buildings; and there is UV radiation from unnatural light sources and computer screens. Our drinking water often contains chemicals, residues of heavy metals and human wastes. Add stress to this package and it is no wonder we are seeing so many cases of sensitized skin. In fact, living in a polluted city can add as much as five years to your face. The answer - other than retiring to the Alps - comes in the form of antioxidants.

SUN
Let's face it, there is no such thing as a healthy tan. While a teeny bit of sun exposure is necessary for vitamin D production, too much sun will prematurely age the skin. According to dermatologists, the sun's ultraviolet rays are accountable for more skin damage than any other factor.



Pollution, sun exposure, sugar and cigarette smoke all trigger the formation of free radicals. The result is a skin 'breakdown' manifesting in premature ageing or even severe conditions such as skin cancer.



SUGAR
A diet too high in sugar or simple carbohydrates may have a negative effect on the skin's appearance and how fast it ages. Sugar in the human body can attach itself to structural proteins like elastin and collagen, causing them to be less flexible and potentially more prone to degeneration. If, for instance, an enzyme that repairs skin after sun exposure is not working properly because it's got a sugar stuck to it, then that important function is not going to happen.

Remember that the body converts anything that is starch - rice, pasta, cake and flour - into sugar. Rather opt for 'good' foods like protein, essential fatty acids (found in fatty fish like mackerel, salmon and tuna) and iron. An iron deficiency contributes to anaemia and a low blood count, and produces a pale, sallow complexion.

SMOKING
If you cannot give up smoking for all the sound heath reasons, at least consider what it does to your face. The skin of a smoker is, on average, 40% thinner than a non-smoker's. Smokers have far more wrinkles than non-smoker - in fact, a 40-year-old smoker is likely to have as many as a 60-year-old non-smoker. Particularly noticeable are the lines around the mouth (from puckering) and eyes (from squinting through the smokes).

Furthermore, nicotine and tar slow down the blood circulation and thus reduce blood flow to the skin, depriving it of vital nutrients and oxygen, and leading to an unattractive grey-tinged, dull complexion. The two harmful substances also promote the formation of free radicals and weaken the collagen and elastin fibres, resulting in skin that is prematurely wrinkled. If that's not enough to put you off, consider that smokers have much higher rates of skin cancers, they are less able to utilize antioxidant vitamins such as vitamin C and their wounds heal slower. When your skin is cut, it needs more oxygen and nutrients than normal for the healing process. Smoking causes the little blood vessels in the skin to constrict, resulting in less blood flowing to the skin and therefore slower healing.









Remember to be moderate in your consumption of alcohol. A glass of wine per day is perfectly permissible, but do not be tempted to overdo it - your skin will pay the price.

ALCOHOL
Alcohol is a toxin and when ingested has to be detoxified by the body. Excessive quantities are not easily dealt with as they place strain on the organs involved in the detoxifying process, such as the liver. While a glass of wine with your meal is fine, a single night of bingeing will be visible on your skin the next morning as dehydration, redness and puffy eyes. Usually heavy drinkers tend to have heavier capillary formation, giving the skin a red, ruddy look.

Alcohol is also a vasodilator: when you drink, your skin feels warm because your blood vessels actually relax, allowing more blood flow to the skin. If you do this consistently, the blood vessels eventually start to stretch, which leads to greater blood vessel formation. Alcohol also depletes the body's levels of vitamin B, especially folic acid and thiamine. In your skin, a deficiency will manifest as a sallow complexion, dryness, slackness and breakouts.

STRESS
Mental overload and undue stress can cause your skin to behave badly. When you are stressed, the body releases adrenal or stress hormones, which bring about a number of changes in the skin, including blemishes and oily or dry patches. In chronic cases, blood is pumped away from the skin to the main organs, resulting in a pale, ashes appearance and under-eye circles. At the same time, cell turnover is slowed, and this leads to a build-up of toxins that makes the skin look sallow.

Skin, the body's largest organ, makes up about 15% of your body weight.

TIPS TO HEALTHY SKIN

GOOD GENES
You can choose your friends, but not your family - or your genes. Genes play an important part in your overall appearance and determine how your skin behaves and ages. Although you cannot do anything about the characteristics you inherit from your parents, you can use them as an 'age barometer' and take certain steps to arm yourself against problems that are likely to come your way.

There is no denying the benefits of exercise - it's the easiest way to perk up a lacklustre complexion.

REGULAR EXERCISE
During exercise the circulation is boosted and oxygen-rich blood is delivered to every cell in your body allowing nutrients to be absorbs quicker. The short-term effect is a glowing complexion. Long-term, many experts believe that exercise improves the skin's elasticity and encourages new cell growth. Remember, however, that moderation is the key to good health. Professional sportspeople sometimes have a gaunt look due to a low body fat concentration. That is not necessarily a good thing as you get older, as it may mean you lose some of that youthful plumpness. Training outdoors also potentially means more sun exposure.












Raw fruit and vegetables are one of the best sources of antioxidant vitamins, vital for good skin.



BALANCED DIET
Although some dermatologists do not believe that what you eat has any effect on the state of your skin, it is acknowledged that your skin reflects the general health of your body. Clear, radiant skin is dependant on the efficient functioning of your kidneys, intestines and liver - the organs responsible for detoxification and waste removal. Excess alcohol, drugs and fatty foods can put strain on these organs, resulting in a sluggish system and pasty, blotchy skin, while smoking and high caffeine intake can compromise your body's defence system.

Regular crash dieting also plays havoc with your body and can add as much as 10 years to your face, while nutrient deficiencies will affect your complexion, A lack of protein, for example, can manifest in a dull, dry complexion; a shortage of vitamin C may result in dullness and easy bruising' lack of vitamin A can cause dry skin and disruption in cellular turnover; a deficiency in iron can produce a pale complexion; and a vitamin B deficiency may lead to breakouts, pallor and cracks at the corners of the mouth.






Sleep allows your body to regenerate and your mind to clear so that you wake up feeling and looking fresh.

ENOUGH SLEEP
Skincare experts now believe that skin cells regenerate as the body rests, repairing damage done during the day and producing new cells in preparation for the next. Studies have also shown that sleep-deprived people have lower levels of a growth hormone that influences specific skin-growth factors like collagen and keratin production. As far as most of us are concerned, there is no denying what a lack of sleep does to your eyes and complexion!

DEEP BREATHING
Your skin absorbs a small amount of oxygen through the pores and so needs to 'breathe'. Try not putting anything onto your face for at least a small part of each day and always cleanse well to avoid blocked pores. Breathing properly through your lungs will also benefit your skin: breathing in supplies your skin with oxygen and breathing out removes carbon dioxide and waste. Many of us breathe incorrectly by taking shallow breaths into the top of the chest.

Try inhaling and exhaling slowly through the nose. Keep the shoulders relaxed and draw each breath right down into your stomach, holding it there to a count of four, before exhaling slowly, emptying out your lungs completely. Breathing is a great stress reliever: it has been shown to lower the pulse rate and its easy, rhythmic quality is comforting.

HOW SKIN AGES

Skin changes as we age. There is little you can do about it, but if you take good care of yourself throughout your lifetime, you can reduce the visible effects of the ageing process.

With age, the elasticity and strength of the skin declines. Coupled with the pull of gravity, this results in sagging and wrinkles. Although some products claim to 'restore' youth, there is nothing one can do to stop this decline. One can, however, preserve what one has by following a good care routine and minimizing sun exposure. It is mostly the damage done to deeper levels that determines how our skin looks as we get older, and this is largely self-inflicted by years of overexposure to the sun. Everyone's skin ages differently according to genetics, lifestyle choice, stress levels, exposure to things like ultraviolet light or harmful substances, and to a certain extent, just plain luck.

PRE-TEEN
For the first decade of a child's life, its skin looks clear, smooth, plump, wrinkle- and blemish-free. The reason for this healthy appearance is that the epidermis works efficiently - it is translucent and well hydrated. The surface is smooth and unlined and light is reflected from a healthy, undamaged skin, hence the term the 'bloom of youth'. At this age, there is usually little or no apparent sun damage, but it is the time when the damage that will surface later is being done. Now is the time to instill sun awareness in your children. They will thank you 20 years down the line.

TEEN-EARLY 20 s
Hormonal changes can cause havoc with skin. They cause an increase in sebum production, which often leads to breakouts, acne and shiny, oily skin. The twenties are a kind of transitional period - by the time you enter them, the extreme hormone production has usually calmed down and your skin becomes normal (although some people suffer from spots well into their 30s). This is the time to establish a good skincare routine. Although the effects of the sun have not become visible, much of the harm will have already been done by the age of 18.

25 - 40
Towards the end of the twenties, the first signs of fine lines around the eyes and mouth usually appear as collagen and elastin start to break down in the skin. There is a significant drop in skin hydration, and adult acne may also occur. Broken veins may appear as tiny red dots on the skin, and brown pigmentation marks and age spots can begin to show. Pores can enlarge and skin may become coarser due to sun damage, or the fact that the rate of loss of dead surface cells has started to slow down (which is why exfoliation is so important now).

INTO MENOPAUSE
If you looked after yourself in your younger years, you will see the benefits now. At this age natural ageing becomes more visible and deeper wrinkles, crow's feet and frown lines become prominent. Skin loses its firmness as there is a significant decrease in dermal repair and cohesion between the skin's layers. During menopause, the production of oestrogen drops dramatically, causing a breakdown in collagen, resulting in wrinkles and sagging. Skin also becomes more fragile and you may experience slow-healing cuts or bruises.

55+
With decreased thickness of the dermis, decreased resilience of the skin and the loss of subcutaneous fat, sagging and jowl-like wrinkles become apparent. You may also notice an increase in fine facial hair. Skin can appear sallow with uneven colour and dark under-eye circles. If you were a sun worshipper in the past, discolouration will now become visible. You will notice the effects of gravity most strongly in your 70s - facial skin and neck start to appear 'loose'. Hands, too, will show the passing of time and age spots are pronounced.

Genetics play an important role in determining how you will age. If your mother looked good well into her sixties, chances are high you will too - if you look after yourself, of course.

Your body is programmed to age and there's nothing you can do about your internal clock! The good news is there is a lot you can do to slow down the visible results of the process and keep your skin looking better for longer. There are two types of ageing - intrinsic and extrinsic.

Intrinsic or chronological ageing is the natural, biological process of ageing, over which we have little control. Extrinsic ageing is a result of external causes, in particular photo ageing (damage caused by ultraviolet radiation or sun exposure). Exposure to UV light and pollution accelerate ageing due to the production of free radicals in the skin. Free radicals are rogue molecules that attack the collagen and elastin fibres as well as new skin cells as they form. Although this happens mainly in the dermis, the effect is visible on the surface of the skin as a dry and weakened skin texture, pigmentation, broken veins and an increased vulnerability to further external damage.

The difference between intrinsic and extrinsic ageing can be seen on the inside of your upper arm, near the armpit. You will notice that this skin is smooth, soft and supple, while the skin on the back of the hands is thicker, rougher and drier. With intrinsic ageing, the skin's outer layer will become about 20% thinner over time, although the skin's surface should remain smooth. Sun-damaged skin, however, is thickened, with up to 50% more cells accumulating on the surface, giving it a rough, dry texture. (Think of a weather-beaten fisherman). Photo-ageing also causes a marked accumulation of pigment in the basal layers, resulting in age spots. In addition, pores tend to be more dilated and the skin may appear more mottled. And that is only the damage visible to the naked eye!

Hands can give away age in a flash. Compared to the face, they have a thinner layer of skin, less fat to hide wrinkles, fewer oil glands to moisturize them and you cannot use make-up to conceal them. The secret to good looking hands: take good care of them.

The thinnest skin is on the eyes, lips, neck and the back of the hands, and the thickest on the palms of the hands and soles of the feet.