NAIL TIPS

Preformed nail tips are attached to the natural nails with nail glue and generally applied halfway down the nail plate. For a smoother finish, some nail technicians may apply acrylics, gels or wraps over either the natural 'untipped' nail or both the natural nail and the new tip. The entire shape is then filed into the length and shape you want. You can buy nail enhancement kits that contain tips but because of the chemicals involved, your best option is to visit a nail technician. The basics are explained here to help you understand the process.



APPLY TIP

The natural nail surfaces are buffed to remove shine and the free edge is filed into shape. One drop of nail adhesive is applied to the nail tip, which is held at a 45-degree angle and positioned correctly by placing the top of the tip at the free edge. The tip is rolled back and pressed down, holding it in place for a few seconds until it is secure.





FILL SEAM WITH ACRYLIC

The tip seam is blended and filled with acrylic gel.















SMOOTH ACRYLIC GEL

While still wet, the acrylic is smoothed with a brush.















DRY NAILS

The nails are dried using a specially ultraviolet lamp. Later, the nails are buffed and smoothed. They are then finished according to your personal preference - basecoat, two coats of varnish if you choose to use colour, and a topcoat to finish.

GEL NAILS

Gel nails are created by applying layers of gel acrylic to the nails. These combine and harden to form a solid nail. Depending on the formula use, nails are hardened with an ultraviolet light or under ordinary room lighting. Gels are among the most natural-looking of all nail enhancements and worth thinking about if you want nails that look like your own, only longer and stronger. Get a nail technician to apply your gel nails for you as doing it yourself is tricky. That said, the basic steps are outlined here to help you understand the process.

Method 1: Fibre wraps


ATTACH TIP

Natural nail surfaces are buffed and free edges filed to shape. A drop of nail adhesive is applied to the nail tip, which is held at a 45-degree angle. The top of the tip is placed at the free edge, rolled back, pressed down and held till secure.




TRIM TIP


The tips are trimmed with a special nail tip trimmer.











FILE TIPS TO SHAPE


The tips are shaped with a nail file and any rough edges are smoothed away.










BLEND TIPS


The tip seam is blended where it joins the nail and the free edge is shaped with a medium to fine file.









BUFF AND SMOOTH


Nails are buffed and smoothed carefully.










APPLY MICROFIBRE WRAP


The self-adhesive microfibre wrap is applied.









APPLY THIN ACRYLIC


One to two coats of thin acrylic gel are applied to the wraps and allowed to set.












BUILD CONTOURS
When dry, the remnants of the fibre wraps are cut away and any roughness file smooth. Thick acrylic gel is applied to build up the nail contours.












FILE AND BUFF
Once set, nails are filed and buffed, and topcoat applied.
















TIPS

• Enhancement need 'filling' every two to four weeks, depending on how quickly your nails grow. The area next to the cuticle is filled by the technician to match the rest of the nail.
• When any enhancements are removed, your natural nails may be paper thin.

Method 2: Acrylic overlay


APPLY TIPS
The natural nail surfaces are buffed with a buffer to remove shine only, then the free edge of the nail plate is filed to shape. One drop of nail adhesive is applied to the nail tip, which is held at a 45-degree angle and positioned correctly by placing the top of the tip at the free edge. Then the tip is rolled back and pressed down, holding it in place for a few seconds until it is secure.

APPLY BONDING AGENT

One coat of acrylic bonding agent is applied to the natural nail only.







APPLY ACRYLIC
Acrylic is applied using the ball method: The brush is dipped into the liquid and pressed against the dish to release any excess. The tip of the brush is swept across the surface of the powder until it has gathered as much powder as it can hold, and is large enough to cover the entire nail. The ball of product is then applied to the centre of the nail.


FILL IN
Working quickly while still wet, the acrylic is pushed back to fill in the cuticle area, toward the sides and forward to complete the nail overlay. The nails are tapped, and the nail technician listens for the clicking sound that will indicates that the product has completely cured.




FILE AND BUFF
Nails are filed and buffed, then completed according to your needs - basecoat, polish and topcoat. A drop of cuticle oil is applied to each cuticle.














Method 3: Sculpted acrylic


BUFF NAILS

Nails are buffed and sterilized, then sculpted using cutaway disposable paper forms or reusable metal forms.





APPLY BONDING AGENT

One coat of acrylic bonding agent is applied to the natural nail to help bond the keratin with the polymer.




FIT REUSABLE FORM

The chosen form is fitted to each finger, ensuring it fits correctly. It is held securely in position during application. If a reusable form is used, it is slid onto the finger, making sure the free edge of the nail fits over it and it sits snugly.



FIT DISPOSABLE FORM

If disposable forms are used, one is peeled from its paper backing. It is bent into an arch to fit the natural nail shape, slid onto the finger and the adhesive backing is pressed to the sides of the finger. It must fit securely under the free edge and sit level with the natural nail.



ACRYLIC LIQUID

Acrylic liquid (monomer) and acrylic powder (polymer) are poured into separate glass containers. The brush is dipped into the liquid and pressed against the dish to release any excess.



WHITE POWDER

The tip of the brush is swept across the surface of the white acrylic powder until it gathers as much powder as it can hold, and is large enough to shape the entire free-edge extension.




PLACE FIRST BALL

The acrylic ball is placed on the centre of the nail form where it joins the free edge.



DAB, PUSH AND PRESS

The acrylic is dabbed, pushed and pressed to shape an extension using the middle portion of the brush.



CONTINUE SHAPING

Sides are kept parallel and shaped continuously along the free edge.



SHAPING COMPLETED

A dabbing action creates a more natural-looking nail. (If the two-colour acrylic method is used, the natural free-edge line must be followed with the white powder to create a French manicure).



PINK ACRYLIC LIQUID

A second ball of acrylic is created using the pink acrylic powder.



PLACE SECOND BALL

The second ball of acrylic is placed on the natural nail next to the free edge line in the centre of the nail.



SHAPE ACRYLIC

The ball is shaped by dabbing and pressing out to the side walls, making sure the product is very thin around all edges.




PLACE THIRD BALL

A third ball of pink acrylic is placed at the cuticle area.




SMOOTH OVER NAIL

The ball is smoothed over the nail, gliding the brush over the nail to remove any imperfections. The edges closest to the cuticle, sidewall and free edge must be very thin for the most convincing nails.




TAP NAIL FOR DRYNESS

The nails are tapped with the brush handle to hear if they make a clicking sound. This will indicate that the nails are completely dry.




REMOVE METAL FORM

The forms are removed once nails are thoroughly dry.




REMOVE DISPOSABLE FORM

The forms are removed once nails are thoroughly dry.




SHAPE NEW NAILS

Nails are shaped using a medium-grade emery board, then buffed until the entire surface is smooth.





APPLY POLISH

Nails are finished with a layer of basecoat, two coats of nail polish if desired, and a topcoat. Finally, a drop of cuticle oil is applied to each cuticle.

ARTIFICIAL NAILS

Artificial nails offer an easy solution for growing out your natural nails, provide instant gratification, can be applied at home, and are ideal for replacing a broken nail. They look natural if you choose the right size, eliminate the white plastic effect and file them into a convincing shape.




FILE NAILS

Clean and dry your natural nails. File and condition them ready to attach artificial nails.







CHECK FIT

Select the correct nail size for each nail. If necessary, file the sides for an exact fit.








APPLY GLUE

Spread a thin, even layer of nail glue over your entire nail or over the part of the artificial nail that will be attached to your natural nail.




PLACE ON BARE NAIL

Place the false nail up to - but not touching - the cuticle. Press firmly for a few seconds. File off any rough edges.





APPLY VARNISH

Apply two coats of nail varnish of your choice and seal with a layer of topcoat.







TIPS

• Use non-acetone polish remover to remove artificial nails, soaking until they dissolve. Never break or peel them off as this damage your natural nail.
• Do not wear artificial nails for longer than a few weeks at a time; your natural nails need a breather.
• Never use household glue; use special nail adhesives.

HENNA NAIL PASTE, OR MEHNDI

Mehndi is the ancient traditional art of adorning hands, fingers, forearms and toes with non-permanent dye paste made from the leaves of the henna plant. Patterns vary from floral patterns in Arab countries to lacy paisley designs in India. Believed to have healing properties, it is usually used in marriage rites to protect the bride. it is fun to wear but tricky to do, so try this simple, stencilled version instead.


FIX STENCIL

Although henna is traditionally painted on freehand, this requires an artistic and steady hand. For a simpler version, look for self-adhesive stencils and secure these by pressing firmly into place.











MIX PASTE

In a non-porous bowl, mix up a thick paste of henna powder, a teaspoon of coffee granules and some hot water. The resulting paste is a soft green in colour but leaves behind a neutral shade of brown.










SPREAD PASTE

Spread the paste thickly over the stencil, concentrating on the exposed areas. Leave to dry for as long as possible; the longer you leave it, the more intense the henna stain. Overnight would be ideal.









PEEL OFF STENCIL

Once the henna paste has dried peel off the stencil carefully to reveal the delicate lace pattern beneath. Rinse off any remaining paste and pat your hands dry. You can expect the stain to last for a few days on the skin (though it lasts longer when used on nails).

THE FINISHED EFFECT

TIP
Apply a thick blob of henna paste on each clean, dry nail to help strengthen and condition them, but bear in mind that on nails the stain can last from four to six weeks.