HOW SKIN AGES

Skin changes as we age. There is little you can do about it, but if you take good care of yourself throughout your lifetime, you can reduce the visible effects of the ageing process.

With age, the elasticity and strength of the skin declines. Coupled with the pull of gravity, this results in sagging and wrinkles. Although some products claim to 'restore' youth, there is nothing one can do to stop this decline. One can, however, preserve what one has by following a good care routine and minimizing sun exposure. It is mostly the damage done to deeper levels that determines how our skin looks as we get older, and this is largely self-inflicted by years of overexposure to the sun. Everyone's skin ages differently according to genetics, lifestyle choice, stress levels, exposure to things like ultraviolet light or harmful substances, and to a certain extent, just plain luck.

PRE-TEEN
For the first decade of a child's life, its skin looks clear, smooth, plump, wrinkle- and blemish-free. The reason for this healthy appearance is that the epidermis works efficiently - it is translucent and well hydrated. The surface is smooth and unlined and light is reflected from a healthy, undamaged skin, hence the term the 'bloom of youth'. At this age, there is usually little or no apparent sun damage, but it is the time when the damage that will surface later is being done. Now is the time to instill sun awareness in your children. They will thank you 20 years down the line.

TEEN-EARLY 20 s
Hormonal changes can cause havoc with skin. They cause an increase in sebum production, which often leads to breakouts, acne and shiny, oily skin. The twenties are a kind of transitional period - by the time you enter them, the extreme hormone production has usually calmed down and your skin becomes normal (although some people suffer from spots well into their 30s). This is the time to establish a good skincare routine. Although the effects of the sun have not become visible, much of the harm will have already been done by the age of 18.

25 - 40
Towards the end of the twenties, the first signs of fine lines around the eyes and mouth usually appear as collagen and elastin start to break down in the skin. There is a significant drop in skin hydration, and adult acne may also occur. Broken veins may appear as tiny red dots on the skin, and brown pigmentation marks and age spots can begin to show. Pores can enlarge and skin may become coarser due to sun damage, or the fact that the rate of loss of dead surface cells has started to slow down (which is why exfoliation is so important now).

INTO MENOPAUSE
If you looked after yourself in your younger years, you will see the benefits now. At this age natural ageing becomes more visible and deeper wrinkles, crow's feet and frown lines become prominent. Skin loses its firmness as there is a significant decrease in dermal repair and cohesion between the skin's layers. During menopause, the production of oestrogen drops dramatically, causing a breakdown in collagen, resulting in wrinkles and sagging. Skin also becomes more fragile and you may experience slow-healing cuts or bruises.

55+
With decreased thickness of the dermis, decreased resilience of the skin and the loss of subcutaneous fat, sagging and jowl-like wrinkles become apparent. You may also notice an increase in fine facial hair. Skin can appear sallow with uneven colour and dark under-eye circles. If you were a sun worshipper in the past, discolouration will now become visible. You will notice the effects of gravity most strongly in your 70s - facial skin and neck start to appear 'loose'. Hands, too, will show the passing of time and age spots are pronounced.

Genetics play an important role in determining how you will age. If your mother looked good well into her sixties, chances are high you will too - if you look after yourself, of course.

Your body is programmed to age and there's nothing you can do about your internal clock! The good news is there is a lot you can do to slow down the visible results of the process and keep your skin looking better for longer. There are two types of ageing - intrinsic and extrinsic.

Intrinsic or chronological ageing is the natural, biological process of ageing, over which we have little control. Extrinsic ageing is a result of external causes, in particular photo ageing (damage caused by ultraviolet radiation or sun exposure). Exposure to UV light and pollution accelerate ageing due to the production of free radicals in the skin. Free radicals are rogue molecules that attack the collagen and elastin fibres as well as new skin cells as they form. Although this happens mainly in the dermis, the effect is visible on the surface of the skin as a dry and weakened skin texture, pigmentation, broken veins and an increased vulnerability to further external damage.

The difference between intrinsic and extrinsic ageing can be seen on the inside of your upper arm, near the armpit. You will notice that this skin is smooth, soft and supple, while the skin on the back of the hands is thicker, rougher and drier. With intrinsic ageing, the skin's outer layer will become about 20% thinner over time, although the skin's surface should remain smooth. Sun-damaged skin, however, is thickened, with up to 50% more cells accumulating on the surface, giving it a rough, dry texture. (Think of a weather-beaten fisherman). Photo-ageing also causes a marked accumulation of pigment in the basal layers, resulting in age spots. In addition, pores tend to be more dilated and the skin may appear more mottled. And that is only the damage visible to the naked eye!

Hands can give away age in a flash. Compared to the face, they have a thinner layer of skin, less fat to hide wrinkles, fewer oil glands to moisturize them and you cannot use make-up to conceal them. The secret to good looking hands: take good care of them.

The thinnest skin is on the eyes, lips, neck and the back of the hands, and the thickest on the palms of the hands and soles of the feet.