BASIC SKINCARE

Cleansing your skin not only improves the way you look, properly cleansed skin will be more receptive to active ingredients in your treatment products, so they will work better.

CLEANSE
Cleansing is one of the single most important things you can do for your skin. Everyone's skin gets dirty from dust, sweat, make-up, sebum and impurities in the air. If you do not cleanse, your pores will become clogged and your skin will start to look dull. Choosing a cleanser has a lot to do with personal preference, but always take your skin type into account. Cream cleansers are rich and gentle and leave a light, moisturizing film on the skin, which is ideal for dry, sensitive and mature skins. The drier your skin, the richer the cleanser you will need. A lotion or gel cleanser is ideal for normal skin as it rinses off easily, while foaming cleansers are best used on greasy skin as they dissolve any excess oil on the skin.

Avoid scrubbing acne-prone skin as it may irritate the lesions. Soap is a no-no on your face. Your skin is by nature slightly acidic (with a pH of about 5.5) and most soap leaves an alkaline residue that is difficult to wash off and may leave skin feeling dry and tight. If you just cannot wean yourself off that lathering texture, some cosmetics houses make soap-free 'facial bars' that foam, but are gentler than regular soap. Generally, if you have very dry skin, it is advisable to avoid soap bars altogether.

How often should I cleanse?
Cleansing twice a day is sufficient. If you are using mild and well-formulated products you won't damage the skin. Some experts believe you should have at least two cleansers - a milder formula for the morning when there is little or no oil build-up, and a deeper cleansing product for the end of the day.

TONE
The jury is still out on toners. Many dermatologists believe that they do not provide any special benefit other than to remove the final traces of make-up and cleanser and so make the skin feel clean and fresh. They cannot actually 'close' pores as some manufacturers claim they do - pores are the openings for the sebaceous glands and cannot be closed from the outside. However, modern formulations are becoming more and more sophisticated, with some offering soothing and anti-ageing benefits.

It is true that certain exfoliating or clarifying lotions can make your skin look more radiant by dissolving dead surface cells. Many brands also claim that toners help to restore the pH balance of the skin after cleansing. Astringents are strong toners with a high alcohol content that may irritate some sensitive and dry skins. Many toners that are designed for use on oily skins contain alcohol precisely because of its drying effect. However, they can also aggravate acne-prone skin as they may cause an increase in the skin's oil production as well as increased sensitivity.

MOISTURIZE
In the past, moisturizes were designed simply to serve as barriers against the environment. Neither did they penetrate the skin, nor allow it to 'breathe', thus leading to congested, nutrient-starved skin.

Modern moisturizers are designed to help the skin function properly and to improve water retention in the epidermis by 'stealing' it - effectively maintaining a delicate balance between adding water to the surface and preventing evaporation. A vast choice of products is available and it is hard to decide which moisturizer is right for you. As a guideline, we should all be wearing a moisturizer that offers antioxidant benefits (to fight free radicals and prevent premature ageing).

The majority of modern formulation also contain a myriad other ingredients to firm, smooth, mattify or boost radiance, for example. Ask yourself what concerns you most about your skin - is it your breakouts, pigmentation, fine lines, dryness, lack of radiance or wrinkles? - and choose accordingly. As a general rule, drier skins needs a rich, hydrating moisturizer, while combination and oily skins do better with a lightweight lotion. If your moisturizer does not contain a sunscreen, layer one over it.

Serum and boosters
These lightweight formulations have a high concentration of active ingredients and are ideal for special care. Applied under your moisturizer, they usually have anti-ageing or hydrating benefits. If your skin suffers from excessive dryness during winter, for example, a hydrating serum can be used just for those few months until the weather changes and your skin is back to normal.

Never apply eye cream directly to the eyelid or underneath the eye. Using your ring finger, dot it on the orbital bone that circles the eye. The product will gradually work its way in through the repeated action of blinking.

Eye cream
Because the skin around the eyes is the first to show signs of ageing, there is definitely a case for using a special cream for this area. The skin around the eyes ages more quickly because it is thinner than that on the rest of the face, and so is less able to retain moisture. Also, the area is generally more sensitive, with fewer and smaller oil glands and, because the eyes are so expressive, the skin around them is made to move excessively. If you use your regular moisturizer around the eye area you could end up with puffy, irritated eyes, while rich lotions can block the glands.

The fragrances, emulsion and emollients that are used in various moisturizers and night creams may also cause sensitivity in this delicate area. Most eye products have multiple benefits, targeting the common problems associated with the skin around the eyes like fine lines, dark circles and puffiness.

The neck and décolletage are often exposed, so protect and treat them with the same care as you do your face by simply extending your skincare routine down to your chest.

Neck cream
Because the skin on the neck has a small number of fat cells and low supplies of sebum, it is prone to dryness and sagging and, like your hands, reveals your age. A specially enriched neck cream, therefore, has its benefits, but you can also just extend your regular routine to the
décolletage.

Night cream
According to our internal clocks, different body cells are more active at certain times of the day. Skin cells do their repair most effectively at night. In fact, research shows that skin cell regeneration almost doubles at night, peaking between 23:00 and 4:00. Production of collagen (the skin's natural support structure) is boosted, harmful free radicals are destroyed and cell damage is rectified. The latest night creams are designed to maximize the nighttime repair process and are generally more nourishing than a day cream.

Do I really need a serum, night cream, eye gel, and neck cream?
In addition to moisturizers, there is a whole host of potions out there that you have probably been told are essential to a good skincare routine. Many dermatologists scoff at them; many skincare experts swear by their added benefits. While there is only so much your skin can absorb, how many extras you want to add to your basic routine is up to you. If in doubt, consult a professional.

Whether you want to smooth, purify, hydrate, brighten or soothe your skin, there is a face mask for you. Masks should be used regularly for the best results, but do not overuse them.

Masks
Applied to cleansed skin, a good mask can be an instant beauty fix. Masks are generally fairly concentrated and infuse skin with beneficial ingredients. There are various types of masks to choose from. As a guide, clay, mud or peel-off masks are best for deep cleansing and perfect for oily skin, while dry skin will benefit from a rich, hydrating treatment. Masks that claim to replenish, perfect or boost radiance are ideal to pep up a dull complexion. Masks and serums are also the perfect way to treat temporary skin conditions such as dehydration or some form of sensitivity, caused by environmental factors. They can be applied once or twice a week depending on the severity of your problem.

Exfoliating too often or too harshly can compromise your skin's protective waterproof layer. Be very careful of abrasive products; ideally thorough exfoliation should be done by a skincare therapist.

Exfoliate to rejuvenate
Our largest organ of elimination, the skin sheds around five billion dead cells daily. One of the reasons young is so clear and radiant is because in its prime, young, healthy skin replace itself naturally every 14 days. As age sets in this process slows until, at about age 40, the renewal cycle is increased to 30 days. If these dead skin cells sit on the surface of the skin, they clog the pores and make the complexion look dull. Removing them reveals clearer, brighter sin and restores suppleness and vigour by stimulating cell renewal.

Myth: Use a deep-cleansing grainy scrub to open clogged pores and remove dead skin over a breakout.
Fact: Use a gentle, nonabrasive exfoliant to smooth the skin's surface and prevent further breakouts, unless you are on Roaccutane or Retin-A; these products already provide a peeling action.

There are various ways to exfoliate:

• Mechanical exfoliation involves products like synthetic buffing beads, scrubs containing apricot kernels, a muslin face cloth or facial brush. If you like to use a scrub, look for a gentle one with fine granules that dissolve in water. Do not overdo it - once a week is enough.
• Chemical exfoliants have ingredients like alpha and beta hydoxy acids, retinoic acid or enzymes (such as papain, found in papaya). These literally 'unglue' dead surface cells and do not require vigorous rubbing and rinsing. Alpha hydroxy acids (fruit acids) are a group of natural chemicals found in fruit, wine, sugar cane and sour milk that exfoliate the skin's surface layer and accelerate new cell production. If you use products that contain these ingredients on a daily basis, avoid combining them with abrasive scrubs. Always be gentle as over-exfoliation can cause sensitivity. By removing too many cells you could compromise the skin's natural protective barrier and reveal cells that have not been properly primed for the harsh environment.

Organic versus natural
There is a definite shift towards harnessing the healing poser of nature, and the production and consumption of organic and 'natural' skincare products is increasing. The question is : how natural is 'natural' and what exactly is the difference between natural and organic? If a product is truly organic it will be certified by an organic certification agency. The trouble is that it is hard to produce 100% organic beauty products because preservatives are vital constituents, and natural preservatives are hard to find.

Natural products are made from plants and minerals that occur in nature and have not been produced in a laboratory. Organic products are also made from natural ingredients; they are grown without the use of chemicals or pesticides. Seaweed, for example, can be classified as a natural product, but is not organic because it is not grown in controlled conditions.

Truly organic products do not contain any genetically modified ingredients nor petrochemicals (synthetic ingredients derived from natural petroleum or oil), nor do they undergo any animal testing ( unless required by law) and are only subjected to minimal processing. Some cosmetic companies add natural ingredients in the form of fruit acids, vitamins, borage and hemp to skincare products. Some products use ingredients that mimic the skin's natural functions, like hyaluronic acid, a moisturizer that occurs naturally in the skin.

So what is best? Some experts believe that 60% of everything you put on your skin is absorbed by it. Your skin is a highly effective delivery system, so it makes sense that organic beauty products - made without the use of artificial fertilizers, pesticides, chemicals or drugs - ensure the highest level of nourishment to the skin. But remember that your can still have an allergic reaction to a 'natural' product. Natural ingredients can trigger skin reactions in the same way that synthetic ingredients can. If you have sensitive skin, look for products that have full ingredient listings to enable you to identify potential aggressors.