Sunscreen formulations rely on physical or chemical agents to provide protection. Physical sunscreens contain inert mineral particles that reflect or block UV rays (Think of the white zinc dioxide layer that the cricketers use). The molecules cannot break down or be absorbed by the skin and are therefore less likely to irritate the skin. This type of sunscreen is generally better for sensitive skin types.
Physical sunscreens of the past tended to be thick, white and greasy, but modern preparations contain ultrafine titanium dioxide crystals that do not leave that white residue and actually help to absorb oil. Chemical sunscreens, on the other hand, contain synthetic chemical substances that absorb UV radiation. Some o the ingredients can be absorbed through the skin, so these sunscreens may cause irritation. PABA (paraaminobenzoic acid) is one of the most common sensitivity triggers in chemical sunscreens. When choosing a sunscreen, look for ingredients like titanium dioxide or Parsol 1789 (also known as avobenzone; the most effective ingredient for absorbing UVA) and do a patch test to check for sensitivity.
Make sure any product you choose offers UVA and UVB protection. It is also essential that your sunscreen contains antioxidants such as vitamin E, flavonoids, and ascorbic acid to neutralize free radical damage and trigger the repair process. Always choose a product that suits your skin type. For example, gel is best for oily skin, and creams and lotions are most suitable for dry skin.
Low levels of melanin make light skin much more susceptible to photo ageing. Yet black skin, which has quite a high-melanin content, is not immune to sunburn.
Sunburn and sunbeds can add 20 years to your face.
FAUX GLOWS
What we are hearing from dermatologists is that the only safe tan is one that comes in a tube. The good news is that this is the golden age for bottled tans; the modern formulas can give a natural looking glow without the orange streaks and bad smells of past formulations. Self tans us DHA (dihydroxyacetone), colourless sugar that reacts with dead skin cells to create a tanned effect. The reaction is not immediate; it usually takes three to four hours for the colour to develop fully. As your skin constantly renews itself, fake tans only last five to seven days. It is very important to remember that fake tans do not provide any sun protection, so you till need to apply a sunscreen.
WHAT ABOUT SUNBEDS?
If you are all concerned about your skin, you should never lie on a sunbed. The ultraviolet light used by indoor training systems is as dangerous as that of the sun and although they usually filter out the burning UVB rays, they let the UVA rays in even deeper. Sunbeds are, in essence, automatic ageing machines and increase your risk of melanoma.
Primary damage is done to your skin while you are in the sun. However, there is a secondary burst of free radical damage for another 24 hours after exposure. To counter this damage, you must get enough antioxidants and make repair part of your skincare routine.
SHOULD I APPLY A DAILY SUNSCREEN?
Yes! Eighty percent of all sun exposure is incidental - in other words, walking, driving to work (the side of your face closest to the window will exhibit more signs of premature ageing), or taking a break outdoors. In fact, sitting outside at noon for your lunch hour is worse than being on the beach between 9-11:00 or 14:00-17:00. For this reason, it is generally accepted that everyone should be using some sort of daily sun protection.
This is especially important if you are at risk for skin cancer or are on antibiotics, antimalarials, Retin-A, Roaccutane, antidepressants, or some hormone replacement therapies, as they can all increase photosensitivity. So, even when it is overcast, be sure to apply a sunscreen every morning. If you have sensitive skin, rather use a lower SPF and be careful to avoid the sun.
There is no doubt that sunshine makes us feel good. It is essential, however, to learn how to enjoy it without putting your skin at risk.
WHY VITAMIN A IS SO VITAL?
Vitamin A supports the natural health of the skin. Melanocytes, keratinocytes, fibroblasts and Langerhans cells all depend on vitamin A, and a deficiency will also result in a depletion of vitamin C. Although vitamin A protects the skin from the sun, UVA destroys it. If you send the weekend tanning next to the swimming pool, for example, the levels of vitamin A in your skin will be depleted and it will take about seven days to restore those levels. Ten minutes in the sun will cause the vitamin A level in the skin t o drop to about 10%. To maintain a high enough level of vitamin A in the skin to protect it, it is essential to apply vitamin A topically. and to supply the skin with antioxidants that protect your vitamin stores from attack by free radicals.
AND NOW FOR THE GOOD NEWS....
Although for many people the rate of damage is higher than the skin's inherent ability to repair itself, there is a lot of potential for self-repair. The key is to start taking the proper precautions now, if you have not being doing so already. Always protect yourself from the sun. By simply applying a daily sunscreen, you are giving your skin a chance to 'rest' and conserve some of the energy it would otherwise expend on protection during the day. As these energy reserves grow, your skin has a better chance of carrying out the crucial roles of repairing and rebuilding itself; ensuring long term healthy functioning.
Always remember: how you look after your skin as a child (parents, take note!) will determine your appearance 20 years down the line.
How do I know if I am at risk for skin cancer?
Every person runs some risk of developing skin cancer; a lighter skin tone and unprotected sun exposure increase that risk. It is crucial to protect young skin because a severe burn before the age of 18 almost doubles the risk of skin cancer and premature ageing. After years of sun exposure, basal cell carcinoma are the most common types of skin cancer and often appear on exposed areas of the skin. Melanomas are the most widely known type of skin cancer and the deadliest. Remember the ABCD of warning sings for changes in a mole, which may indicate melanoma:
A is for asymmetry: has its shape changed?
B is for border: have the edges increased or become irregular?
C is for colour: has the mole darkened or is the colour not uniform?
D is for diameter: has it become larger than 6mm (¼in)?
Speak to a dermatologist immediately if you answer yes to any of the above questions, or if you are concerned by any suddenly appearing skin lesion. Early detection can make all the difference between successful removal and long-term illness.
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