NATURAL SHAMPOOS

The purpose of a natural shampoo is to thoroughly cleanse the hair and scalp without stripping them of their protective oils. Many of the cheaper commercial shampoos use harsh surfactants as a base, which can disrupt the natural growth cycle of the hair, either by over drying the scalp through too frequent use or by depositing a waxy layer that clogs the follicles and affects healthy hair growth.

A shampoo contains the same type of cleansing surfactants as do soaps, so the key in a natural product is to use cleansers which are mild and non-irritating , such as polyglucoside or sucrose cocoate, derived from glucose (sugar) and fatty acids. Oilier hair will benefit from a modified cleanser based on liquid coconut soap with humectants such as lecithin and honey. Over-washing of the hair is a common problem which leads to scalp dryness, over and under active sebum production and hair that is lack luster, brittle or malnourished.

A classic European 'dry shampoo' recipe is given which will be helpful if you travel frequently or would like to experiment with cleansing your hair without constantly exposing it to tap water, chemicals and detergents. Lavender and rosemary essential oils provide the clean, fresh herbaceous aroma in these shampoos.

CLEANSERS AND HAIRCARE

Liquid Soap Cleanser
A mild and effective cleanser for those who prefer a soap to a lotion cleanser.

• 1 cup (8oz) liquid coconut soap*
• 2 cups (16oz) distilled water or herbal infusion
• 2 tbsp (30ml) modified lecithin
• 2 tbsp (30ml) cold-pressed oil
• 2tbsp (10ml) grapefruit seed extract or Germaben II

*You may substitute any good quality, unfragranced vegetable-based soap or soap flakes for the liquid coconut soap.

Using a glass bowl placed inside a pot of boiling water, heat the ingredients gently, stirring with a spoon or whisk. Once, the soap, lecithin and oil are completely dissolved, allow to cool, and store the liquid mixture in a glass jar for future use.

Hair Shampoo

A gentle hair shampoo for everyday use. Herbal infusions add to the effectiveness of the shampoo. For all hair types.

• 4 oz (120ml) polyglucose
• 2 oz (60ml) coco betaine
• 2 oz (60ml) distilled water or herbal infusion
• 1 tsp (5ml) sucrose cocoate
• 1 tsp (5ml) isosteroyl lactylate
• 1/2 tsp modified lecithin
• 1/2 tsp grapefruit seed extract or Germaben II

Mix all ingredients except the coco betaine together in a glass bowl and stir wlowly with a spoon or whisk. Add the betaine slowly and continue to mix until the liquid becomes thicker. Pour through a funnel into a clean bottle and cap tightly.

Hair Conditioner

Place 8 oz (240ml) distilled or spring water or herbal infusion in a blender with 1/2 tsp grapefruit seed extract or Germaben II. Add 1 tsp alginate powder and blend for one minute. Add 30 drops of lemon juice. Then place the following ingredients in a glass bowl:

• 1 tbsp (15ml) cold-pressed oil
• 1 tsp (5ml) polyglucose
• 1 tsp (5ml) coco betaine
• 1 tsp (5ml) isosteroyl lactylate
• 1/2 tsp modified lecithin
• 1/2 tsp grapefruit seed extract or Gernaben II

Pour the ingredients from the blender gently over the ingredients in the bowl, stirring slowly. When the ingredients are well blended, pour through a funnel into a clean bottle and cap tightly.

NATURAL HERBAL SHAMPOO FOR OILY HAIR

This low-sudsing scalp and hair cleanser will remove excess oil, regulate scalp function, and leave the hair clean.

• 5 oz ( 150ml) unfragranced liquid soap
• 2 oz (60ml) aloe vera gel
• 1 oz (30ml) nettle extract
• 1 tbsp (15ml) lemon juice
• 1 tsp (5ml) unpasteurized honey
• 1 tsp (5ml) modified lecithin
• 30 drops rosemary Pure Essential Oil
• 30 drops lavender Pure Essential Oil

Combine all ingredients, stir until well blended, and pour into a bottle. Use as needed.

NATURAL AROMATHERAPY SHAMPOO

A gentle, fresh -smelling shampoo which effectively cleanses scalp and hair without disrupting their natural functions. For all hair types, especially normal to dry.

• 8 oz (240ml) unfragranced shampoo base(see the hair shampoo recipe)
• 30 drops rosemary Pure Essential Oil
• 30 drops lavender Pure Essential Oil

Pour the unfragranced shampoo base into a measuring cup or beaker, and stir in the essential oils. When the mixture is fully blended, pour through a funnel into a plastic squeeze bottle. Use as often as needed.

CLASSIC EUROPEAN DRY SHAMPOO

A life saver when travelling, camping or when you simply do not have enough time to wash and style your hair. White clay absorbes excess oils, dirt and sebum while essential oils refresh and cleanse. For all hair types.

• 4 tbsp white clay powder
• 1tbsp cornstarch
• 15 drops rosemary Pure Essential Oil
• 15 drops lavender Pure Essential Oil

Mix the dry materials in a bowl and , using a small whisk, blend in the essential oils drop by drop. Spoon the powder through a funnel into a small plastic squeeze bottle. To use the shampoo, part the hair in sections and dab small amounts of the powder onto the scalp with a cotton ball. Wait a miniute or two, then brush well with a bristle hair brush.

NATURAL HAIRCARE TIPS

• Use a basic, naturally-formulated hair shampoo and conditioning rinse
• Experiment with pure essential oils to find the best combination for your scalp and hair type
• Limit scalp and hair exposure to chemical treatments and excess heat
• Give yourself regular scalp massages using your fingers in firm circular motions to promote circulation to the scalp and to stimulate follicles
• Use customized hot oil treatments to nourish and deep condition the scalp and hair
• Use scalp tonics to invigorate the scalp and assist healthy hair growth
• Purchase an all natural bristle brush, comb and brush hair daily
• Do not share your brush or comb
• Include hair nourishing foods, vitamins and minerals in your diet
• Take extra supplement as necessary
• Avoid stress and fatigue

HOT OIL TREATMENTS

One of the best things you can do for the health of your hair and scalp is to give yourself a natural hot oil treatment every week or two. Pick a convenient time, such as a weekend or a quiet evening when you can relax and allow the treatment time to work most effectively.

Hot oil treatments work in several ways. First, the heat of the carrier oils loosens the scalp and hair follicles, allowing trapped sebum and old hairs to detach, freeing the scalp and follicles to benefit from special scalp massage. Second, through massage, the nutrients and active botanical elements in the aromatherapy oil are easily absorbed by the scalp follicles. Third, increased blood circulation to the scalp and stimulation of the follicles by massage and the oils result in accelerated healthy hair growth. Rubbing the oil through the scalp to the ends of the hair before shampooing also gives the hair a deep conditioning treatment, leaving it full and vibrant, with a natural sheen and softness.

If your hair is naturally normal to oily, select cold-pressed oils such as sweet almond, grapeseed and hazelnut as a base, adding smaller amounts of heavier oils such as avocado, wheatgerm or jojoba. If your hair and scalp tend towards dryness, and you experience itchiness or flaking, increase the amounts of the latter three oils.

Jojoba oil is used almost exclusively by many people in their hot oil blends. It is molecularly comparable to human sebum, and is considered especially helpful for hair and scalp treatment. Avocado oil, a highly penetrative oil containing a wide range of beneficial vitamins and essential fatty acids, is another oil that has specific hair and scalp regulating and nourishing abilities. Pure essential oils are a key additive to hot oil treatments. Lavender and rosemary oil are the use for their cleansing and stimulating effects.

If you have oily hair, try oils of cedarwood Atlas, lemon, juniper or pine in your blends. For a dry or sensitive scalp, sandalwood, neroli, sweet orange and ylang-ylang are excellent choices.

AROMATHERAPY HOT OIL TREATMENT
Al ighter, penetrating oil mixture for weekly use if you have normal to oily hair.

• 2 oz (60ml) sweet almond or hazelnut oil
• 1/2 oz (15ml) avocado oil
• 1 tsp (5ml) wheatgerm oil
• 1/2 tsp modified lecithin
• 15 drops lavender Pure Essential Oil
• 15 drops rosemary Pure Essential Oil

Mix the carrier oils and essential oils together in a small beaker, and pour into a glass bottle. Loosely cap the bottle and stand it in a mug half-full of just boiled water to warm the oil. Part your hair in section s and apply oil to the scalp with a dropper or fingertips. Once your scalp is saturated, genltly perform a firm, deep scalp massage using the pads of your fingertips in circular motions for 3-5 mintues. Wrap your hair in a towel and relax for 20-3o minutes. Shampoo your hair thoroughly, towel dry and style as usual.

ULTRA DEEP CONDITIONING HOT OIL TREATMENT

This rischer formulation best suits those with dry, flaky or itchy scalp and fine or brittle hair. Use every one to two weeks.

• 2 oz (60ml) avocado oil
• 1 oz (30ml) jojoba oil
• 1 tsp (5ml) wheatgerm oil
• 1/2 tsp modified lecithin
• 1/2 tsp Vitamin E
• 1/2 tsp Vitamin A
• 15 drops sandalwood Pure Essential Oil
• 15 drops sweet orange Pure Essential Oil
• 5 drops ylang-ylang Pure Essential Oil

Follow the directions given for the Aromatherapy Hot Oil Treatment.

Other carrier oils to try in custom hot oil treatments:

• macadamia nut
• kukui nut
• coconut oil
• peach kernel
• apricot kernel
• sesame
• sunflower
• safflower
• soybean

AROMATIC VINEGARS & TONICS

Scalp tonics and aromatic vinegars are a wonderful natural way to cleanse your scalp, banish headaches, muscle tension and clear your mind at the same time.
Many of the tonics contained herbal extracts and essences that kept the hair youthful, thick and lustrous, with a minimum of gray.

Scalp tonics are important as they prevent the clogging of hair follicles by commercial hair product deposits, resulting in healthier, stronger hair. Scalp massage using the pads of the fingertips in firm circular motions loosens the galea (the broad muscle which runs over the top of the scalp) and prepares the entire scalp to receive the nutrients. The deep, consistent movements of the massage also provide blood circulation to the scalp and stimulate hair growth.

SCALP TONIC FOR THINNING HAIR

This brisk and invigorating vitamin tonic is designed to be applied once or twice daily to activate previously clogged hair follicles. The addition of vitamins A, B, C and E is optional, but is recommended if you wish to stimulate hair growth. For all hair types.

• 2 oz (60ml) distilled or spring water
• 2 oz (60ml) unflavored vodka
• 1 oz (30ml) aloe vera gel
• 1 oz (30 ml) witch hazel extract
• 1/2 tsp pantothenic acid (pro-vitamins B5)
• 1/2 tsp nicotinic acid (Vitamin B3)
• 1/2 tsp ascorbic acid (Vitamin C)
• 1/2 tsp Vitamin A palmitate
• 1/2 tsp Vitamin E
• 1/2 tsp modified lecithin
• 1 aspirin, dissolved in 1 tsp of hot water
• 30 drops rosemary Pure Essential Oil
• 30 drops lavender Pure Essential Oil

Mix all ingredients in a blender and place on high speed for one minute. Pour through a funnel into a glass bottle. To use, sprinkle drops onto the scalp, or saturate a cotton ball and blot over the scalp. Massage scalp gently but firmly until the tonic is absorbed (about 5 minutes). For best results, use daily.

AROMATIC ROSE VINEGAR

This French formula is used to relieve migraines as well as to clear the head and cleanse the scalp. Try it as a cold compress next time you feel feverish.

• full blown roses, petals removed
• 1 oz (30ml) apple cider vinegar
• 1 oz (30ml) aloe vera gel
• 1 oz (30ml) witch hazel extract
• 1 oz (30ml) unflavored vodka
• distilled or spring water to cover petals
• 30 drops rose geranium Pure Essential Oil
• 10 drops rose absolute (optional)

Place the rose petals in a glass jar and pour the liquid ingredients (except the essential oil and absolute) over them to cover. Leave to steep for one week, then strain the liquid into a bowl, discarding the rose petals. Whisk the drops of essential oils and absolute into the liquid and pour through a funnel into a bottle.

FACIAL TONERS AND ASTRINGENTS

After cleansing face and neck, applying a refreshing liquid toner is the second step towards healthy and balanced skin. Toners can be customized to satisfy individual skin needs. Natural toners are water-based solutions and the primary purpose is to remove all final traces of cleanser, excess sebum and makeup residue, while reducing pore size and restoring a neutral pH balance to the skin.
The ideal toner supports the continuous efforts of delicate facial skin to resist environmental and other stressors, repair itself and regenerate healthy new skin cells.

With a little practice, you can customize toners to your own skin type, choosing from a wide range of natural and inexpensive plant-based ingredients.

GENTLE CHAMOMILE AND ALOE VERA TONER
A mild, cooling gel-like formula which removes redness and soothes inflamed skin. For dry and sensitive skin.

• 4 oz (120ml) distilled or spring water
• 2 oz (60ml) aloe vera gel
• 2 oz (60ml) chamomile tea
• 1tsp xanthan gum powder
• 1/2 tsp grapefruit seed extract
• 1/4 tsp evening primrose oil
• 8 drops Roman chamomile Pure Essential Oil
• 2 drops rose absolute (optional)

Combine all ingredients in a blender, blend briefly on low setting, pour into a glass bottle and cap. Use as needed.

SPARKLING CITRUS FACIAL TONER

This refreshing toner includes Vitamin C and citrus oil to cleanse and enliven dull skin. For normal to oily skin.

• 4 oz (120ml) sparkling mineral water
• 2 oz (60ml) aloe vera gel
• 2 oz (50ml) witch hazel extract
• 1/2 tsp polysorbate 20
• 1/4 tsp Vitamin C powder
• 20 drops grapefruit Pure Essential Oil
• 10 drops lemon Pure Essential Oil
• 10 drops sweet orange Pure Essential Oil

Combine all ingredients in a glass measuring cup, stir well, pour into a glass bottle and cap. For best results, shake well before each use.

HERBAL BALANCING ASTRINGENT

A therapeutic toner containing active ingredients to detoxify, control outbreaks and encourage healthy skin turnover. For oily or problem skin.

• 4 oz (120ml) distilled or spring water
• 2 oz (60ml) aloe vera gel
• 1 oz (30ml) infiltered apple cider vinegar
• 1 oz (30ml) 90-proof unflavored vodka
• 1/2 tsp polysorbate 20
• 1/2 tsp grapefruit seed extract
• 10 drops tea tree Pure Essential Oil
• 10 drops juniper berry Pure Essential Oil
• 10 drops rosemary Pure Essential Oil
• 10 drops lavender Pure Essential Oil

Combine all ingredients in a glass measuring cup, and stir well with a wire whisk until the ingredient are fully blended. Pour into a glass bottle and cap. Shake well before each use.

CLARIFYING TREATMENTS

In recent years, cosmetic scientists have discovered that important skin clarifying factors, known as as alpha-hydroxy and beta-hydroxy acids, are available in fruits and vegetables.

These biological substances are of great interest in skincare, as in low concentrations, they moisturize the skin and make it pliable, while in higher concentrations, they provide an exfoliating and peeling effect, clarifying and smoothing the complexion.

Most fruits and vegetables are excellent sources of vitamins, minerals, amino acids, enzymes and chlorophyll. Enzymes are important in peeling of dead skin cells while chlorophyll is a potent cleanser, tonic and cell stimulator. Carrot and green juices are high in beta-carotene (pro-vitamin A) while sprout juices contain high amounts of Vitamin B complex. All fresh juices are excellent sources of Vitamin C, and celery, beet and green juices contain anti-oxidant Vitamin E.

Recent studies have shown that the epidermis is able to absorb vitamins and nutrients from topically applied liquid juice solutions, greatly benefiting the strength, elasticity and general appearance of the skin. Facial formulas of olden days utilized these knowledge, and fresh fruits and vegetables were often included in recipes.

For best results, if you are truly seeking improvements in your skins' condition, drinking them often as well as using them in face washes. You can make this effective with a little time, pure acid alpha hydroxy acid plant juice at home and all natural sources to use in your facial treatments.


FRESH JUICES FOR FACIAL TREATMENTS BY SKIN TYPE
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For dry and dehydrated skin :

• canteloupe
• honeydew melon
• peach
• nectarine
• pear
• papaya
• apple
• watermelon
• black cherry
• mango

For normal skin :

• apple
• cucumber
• watermelon
• strawberry
• papaya
• sweet citrus, eg. mandarin
• carrot
• pineapple
• grape

For oily or problem skin :

• bitter greens eg. dandelion, watercress
• cabbage
• acidic fruits eg. grapefruit, lemon
• cranberry
• pineapple
• tomato
• celery
• spinach

For trouble and acneic skin :

• acidic citrus eg. lemon, lime
• bitter greens eg. dandelion, watercress
• super greens eg. wheatgrass, barley shoots
• radish
• ginger
• onion
• garlic

ALPHA HYDROXY ACID CLARIFYING FACIAL LIQUID

Use this juice directly to exfoliate the skin, or mix with water to make a mild clarifying toner.

• 1 large ripe grapefruit, peeled
• 1 large green apple, peeled and cored
• 1 large ripe red tomato
• 1/2 tsp grapefruit seed extract

Wash the fruits and chop them into large pieces. Place all the above fruits in the electric juicer, collecting the mixed juices in a measuring cup. Filter the juice through a filter, and add the grapefruit seed extract. Pour into a glass bottle and refrigerate for use as needed.

To use, saturate cotton balls and apply over face and neck, avoiding eye area and lips. After five minutes, splash the skin clean with warm water.

Juicy fruits have a high purified liquid content and bioenergetic factors which make them perfect for washing the skin. Many different skin problems can benefit from a regular fruit juice 'wash.' Selet juices appropriate to your skin type (refer to the chart above). Use an electric juicer to make the fresher juices for greatest effectiveness.

WATERMELON AND CUCUMBER CLARIFYING TONER

A wonderfully refreshing, cooling liquid for all skin types. The two juices combined with the slightly astringent witch hazel extract and the hint of peppermint have a cleansing, energizing effect on the skin.

• 1 small cucumber, cut in 1" sections
• 1 segment ripe watermelon
• 2 tbsp witch hazel extract
• 2 tbsp mineral water
• 1 drop peppermint Pure Essential Oil

Squeeze the juice from the ripe fruits using lemon squeezer. Strain through a sieve or cloth into a small bowl. Add the witch hazel and stir. Use cotton pads to dampen the face and neck, saturating the skin with the solution.

For an intensive clarifying treatment, cut a piece of cheesecloth the size of your face, with openings for nose and mouth. Saturate the cheesecloth with the liquid and lay it over your face for five minutes. Finish by splashing the skin clean with warm water and drying gently with a clean towel.

During hot day, this mixture will keep your skin refreshed and hydrated, especially if you add a couple of ice cubes to the toner before applying to your skin. This mixture is best used fresh, but if you want to keep it for a short time in the refrigerator, add one tablespoon of unflavoured vodka to each four ounces of juice.

SCRUBS AND EXFOLIANTS

The old fashioned term 'scrub' has been largely replaced with new concepts cosmetic science, such as bio-active peeling substances, specialized masks, vegetal extracts, glycolic and alpha-hydroxy acids and a host of other exotic products and methods promising spectacular results.

The basic concept behind all these treatments is the same - the mechanical removal of dead or damaged skin cells from the uppermost layer of the skin. Our facial skin is being endlessly renewed in this cycle, which takes approximately 28 days.

Scrubs, exfoliants and the newer cosmetic treatments provide a physical means to assist the skin in sloughing off the dead skin cells, clarifying the complexion and stimulating new cell growth. Care should always be taken, though, to ensure that the exfoliation process is not as extreme as to damage the skin during its natural cycle of regeneration.


NATURAL EXFOLIATING MATERIALS
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For normal to dry skin :

• ground oatmeal
• oat bran
• ground almonds
• cornmeal
• wheatgerm
• powdered milk
• rice bran
• strawberries
• grain flours
• ground herbs and herbal powders

For oily or problem skin :

• ground orange peel
• ground lemon peel
• sugar
• oatmeal
• lecithin granules
• fine-ground coffee
• psyllium husks
• small-textured cereal grains, eg. amaranth
• fibrous fruit, eg. pineapple

NATURAL CARRIER MATERIALS
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For normal to dry skin :

• distilled/ spring water
• mineral water
• milk
• cream
• honey
• vegetable glycerin glycerin
• floral hydrosols
• rose water
• cooled herbal teas
• cold-pressed oil eg. sweet almond oil and wheatgerm oil

For oily or problem skin :

• yogurt
• buttermilk
• apple cider vinegar
• witch hazel
• vodkha
• honey
• orange flower water
• herbal vinegar
• aloe vera gel

To exfoliate , cleanse skin thoroughly with warm water and pat dry, then proceed with :

• Mix one tbsp of your selected natural exfoliating material in a small bowl with one tbsp of natural carrier.
• Add a little unpasteurized honey to the mixture to achieve a smooth, creamy consistency.

Apply the mixture to the skin with fingertips, working over the nose, chin, jawline, cheekbones and forehead with small , firm and circular motions. After massaging for several minutes, rinse off all traces of exfoliating material with warm water, pat skin dry and moisturize lightly.

CLASSIC ORANGE / ALMOND/ HONEY SCRUB

A fresh, home-made alternative to commercial scrub products. The orange peel contains citric acid and Vitamin C and the ground almond meal and honey are excellent for softening the skin. For all skin types.

• 1 tbsp fresh grated orange peel
• 1 tbsp ground almond meal
• 1 tbsp unpasteurized honey
• 10 drops sweet orange of Pure Essential Oil
• distilled water (as needed)

Mix the ingredients together in a small bowl and apply to damp face and neck. Use small circular motions and then rinse thoroughly. Pat dry and follow tih a ligh moisturizer. In addition to exfoliation with scrubs, an excellent regenerator is papaya, which contains papain, a potent enzyme which 'digests' dead skin cells while leaving live ones untouched. Bromelain, the enzyme in pineapple , performs a similar function. By combining these two powerful fruit enzymes, you can make a bio-active peeling mask at home.

PAPAYA AND PINEAPPLE EXFOLIATING TREATMENT

A natural fruit mixture with Vitamin C to remove dead skin cells, lighten age spots and reveal younger skin with a healthy glow. For all skin types.

• 2 tbsp mashed papaya
• 2 tbsp mashed fresh pineapple
• 1tbsp unpasteurized honey
• 1/2 tsp Vitamin C powder
• 6 drops sweet orange Pure Essential Oil

Select under ripe papaya and over ripe pineapple for the highest enzyme activity. Combine the mashed fruits and other ingredients in a small bowl. Work mixture gently over the skin for one minute, then apply a layer and leave for 3-5 minutes. Rinse thoroughly and splash with cool water.